Only recently we discovered the engaging Musée d’Histoire de la Vie Quotidienne (MHVQ) of Saint Martin en Campagne (Normandy, France), that hosts shoes made by André Perugia. We wrote to the Museum and the very kind curator, m.me Apolline Rouget, sent us a few useful information and a complete set of photographs.
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1920s | ANDRE PERUGIA SHOP 11, FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORE, PARIS Original caption: The "Perugia" shoe shop window decorated by Martine, Paris. (CA 1920-25) Source: Fratelli Alinari Museum Collections, Florence |
The shoes - said m.me Rouget - five pairs in total, are a recent acquisition and all had been property of an unnamed French actress who performed both on stage and screen; her career took place between the two World Wars. The donor, a person who had known the actress, gave the shoes to the museum with a request of keeping secret the lady's name.
So, we have a French museum, an actress that can't be named and a great bottier: almost a spy-story.
So, we have a French museum, an actress that can't be named and a great bottier: almost a spy-story.
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1920s | André Perugia | 11, Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris MHVQ Perugia Collection © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
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MHVQ curator M.me Apolline Rouget showing the collection © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
Let's begin with the shoes as the museum has been given misleading dates. All the models are from the Twenties, the period of the Faubourg Saint-Honoré shop in Paris, and all but one have an inscription on the outsole with the name "Perugia".
The gorgeous blue and white pair comes from the 1925 collection that we called «Orphic» because the vamp decoration is inspired by the artistic movement mainly represented by the Delauneys spouses.
The shoes are a virtuoso piece of work based on the contrast between blue and white, with small kidskin circles combining the same two colors.
The oldest is a pump in pink suede from the mid-Twenties (circa 1924), with a delicate decoration of kidskin circlets in pastel shades. The shape is very simple and the decoration is elegant and well balanced.
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Ca 1924 | André Perugia © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
The gorgeous blue and white pair comes from the 1925 collection that we called «Orphic» because the vamp decoration is inspired by the artistic movement mainly represented by the Delauneys spouses.
The shoes are a virtuoso piece of work based on the contrast between blue and white, with small kidskin circles combining the same two colors.
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1925 | André Perugia | The Orphic collection © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
1925 | André Perugia | The Orphic collection | detail © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
The third pair, of contrasting tones of green and gold, is a semplified style of the Orphic collection (the circlets are only on the vamp) and apparently it was made a little later. A sister model - with a different combination of tones - can be found at Moscow's Shoe Icons.
Ca. 1926 | André Perugia © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
Ca. 1926 | André Perugia © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
And then the last two models: both probably from the end of the Twenties: a light blue sandal in glazed kidskin and a pump in red lizard leather.
Ca. 1929 | André Perugia © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
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Ca. 1929 | André Perugia © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |
Let's not forget the actress.
To wear shoes made by Perugia on a stage in Paris was a symbol of success and the list of celebrities who bought Perugias - or even sponsored by the bottier - is endless: it's like the proverbial needle in a haystack. The museum isn't allowed to help us, however we might take an educate guess ..
ANDRE' PERUGIA AT THE MUSEE D'HISTOIRE DE LA VIE QUOTIDIENNE
PART 2 | PART 3
ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R
FOOTNOTE
We're still processing additional information from the museum in order to provide even more accurate dates.
Just to recap, the "Orphic" models dates were already established and double checked, while others were assumed due to similarities of details and/or designs: they are not to be considered definitive. In addition, a very interesting clue will soon be revealed about the last two models shown above.
Just to recap, the "Orphic" models dates were already established and double checked, while others were assumed due to similarities of details and/or designs: they are not to be considered definitive. In addition, a very interesting clue will soon be revealed about the last two models shown above.
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André Perugia | Insole label detail © Service Musée - Saint Martin en Campagne - Petit Caux - A. Rouget |