1975 - 1976 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE | PROTOTYPE CLOGS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

July 4, 2017, 1:49 am

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1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

Geta-inspired buckle clogs designed by Luigi Proverbio; mahogany sole produced by Bertolaja (Milan). The clog remained a prototype, deemed too extreme by different makers even in a time of far out designs.

Sandalo in legno con fibbia ispirato ai Geta giapponesi; suola in mogano prodotta da Bertolaja (Milano). Il sandalo non é mai entrato in produzione perché considerato “estremo” da diversi produttori in un periodo in cui design bizzarri abbondavano.

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

Four different vamps exists, including a sabot-like one, all from the personal archive of Luigi Proverbio.

Ne esistono quattro varianti, compreso un sabot, tutti dall’archivio personale di Luigi Proverbio.

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude | detail Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

INTRODUCING LUIGI PROVERBIO
YVES JEAN CLAUDE/TANAGRA (CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN)

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude | Sole detail Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

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1970's | YVES JEAN CLAUDE | PLATFORMS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

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Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

Straight from the archive of designer Luigi Proverbio (Yves Jean Claude, Tanagra), more boots and shoes from the 1970’s. Bright colours, creative leatherwork and the enphasis on the toe box.

Direttamente dall’archivio personale del designer Luigi Proverbio (Yves Jean Claude/Tanagra), altre scarpe e stivali prodotte negli anni ’70. Colori brillanti, tomaie elaborate e sempre l’enfasi posta sulle punte. 

1975 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 | Yves Jean Claude | Platform detail Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1972 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1972 | Yves Jean Claude | Insole Detail Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1973 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1973 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1973 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1973 - 1974 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1973 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1973 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

A different model of the above shoe - from the same collection - is kept at the marvellous Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum (Waalwick, Nederland).

Un differente modello della scarpa qui sopra, appartenente alla medesima collezione, é conservato al sempre sorprendente Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum.

INTRODUCING LUIGI PROVERBIO
YVES JEAN CLAUDE/TANAGRA (CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN)

1975 - 1976 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE

PROTOTYPE CLOGS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

1973 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Source: Nederlands Leder En Schoenen Museum

2000 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE | DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

July 18, 2017, 1:13 am

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2000 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

Although complete with a Yves Jean Claude insole label, these shoes, designed and produced by Luigi Proverbio, never came into production. They were on a shelf, next to wooden shapes, sketched patterns and craft tools.

I wanted to make a pair of sporty and comfortable shoes, not to market them, let's say for personal use. I started working on the shape and I found myself with an exaggerated toe box a bit like those I used to designed in the 1970s.

Luigi Proverbio

Maggio 2107

Sebbene complete di etichetta Yves Jean Claude, queste scarpe disegnate e prodotte da Luigi Proverbio non sono mai entrate in commercio. Stavano in bella vista su uno scaffale, accanto a forme di legno, modelli solo abbozzati e strumenti del mestiere. 

Volevo realizzare da tempo un paio di scarpe sportive e comode, non da commercializzare però, diciamo per uso personale. Ho cominciato lavorare sulla forma e mi sono ritrovato con una punta esagerata un po’ come quelle che disegnavo negli anni Settanta. 

Luigi Proverbio

Maggio 2107

2000 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

I’m quite happy about the result, however I didn’t want to ruin them so I left them in the closet. Every now and then I'm tempted to wear them, but then I put them back on shelf next to its wooden last.

Il risultato mi ha soddisfatto, poi però mi dispiaceva rovinarle e sono rimaste nel cassetto tutti questi anni. Ogni tanto ho la tentazione di metterle, ma poi le rimetto sullo scaffale accanto alla sua forma di legno.  

Luigi Proverbio

Maggio 2107

2000 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

2000 | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

INTRODUCING LUIGI PROVERBIO
YVES JEAN CLAUDE/TANAGRA (CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN)

1975 - 1976 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE
PROTOTYPE CLOGS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

1970's | Yves Jean Claude Designed by Luigi Proverbio Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

SAVE THE DUTCH LEATHER & SHOE MUSEUM

July 18, 2017, 2:26 am

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Save SLEM and therewith the Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum!

Help us maintain this unique Dutch piece of heritage for later generations. 

Your signature might be crucial!

SLEM total is a foundation in which SLEM education and the Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum have been merged. The aim of this merger is to develop a new contemporary and leading museum concept for the future. Since the beginning of 2017 a transition program has been implemented to make the new concept's objectives clear to the public.

Capricio | Made In Italy Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum Courtesy Inge Specht-den Boer (Curator/PR)

The municipal council has made the choice to repel the (according to them) unprofitable education department by bankruptcy of this department, shortly after the opening of the first exhibitions of the transition program. A plan that can cause widespread consequences and even bankruptcy of the museum and the sale and fragmentation of the entire collection!

Capricio | Made In Italy Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum Courtesy Inge Specht-den Boer (Curator/PR)

A rescue plan, with the aim to reject the education department without bankruptcy, was presented before the Council meeting of June 15. Of course this requires financial backing from the municipality of Waalwijk. Although this financial support is in no way equal to the costs incurred by bankruptcy. And above all, it is not in relation to the possible loss of a unique collection of objects that represents the history, culture and identity of Waalwijk. It is therefore unbelievable that the municipality of Waalwijk has decided to lead on to the bankruptcy of SLEM education.

YOUR HELP IS NEEDED

Jan Josef Horemans (1714- 1792) Shoemaker workshop - Late 18th Century Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

ITALIAN SHOES AT THE DUTCH LEATHER & SHOE MUSEUM

ERCO (VIGEVANO)

C.L.A.M.S. (BOLOGNA)

VINCENZO VALENTINO (NAPLES) 

CLEOPATRA (VIGEVANO)

1952 | STAERCK | PARIS | THE ’S’ METAL HEEL

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From URIC magazine, issue 92 - Summer/Winter 1952:

Walking ideas; the ’S’ heel suggested by our own FENOGLIO (Elio, Fashion Editor) on issue N.90 (pag. 21) has been produced by the young STAERCK from Paris and successfully showcased on the Parisian runways back in October. Since then, the idea spread all over the world and hailed by magazines everywhere …

La rivista URIC scriveva nel numero 92 (Estate/Inverno 1952):

Le idee camminano; il tacco ad “S” suggerito dal nostro FENOGLIO (Elvio, redattore Moda) nel N. 90 a pagina 21 é stato realizzato dal giovane STAERCK di Parigi e presentato con grande successo alle sfilate parigine d’ottobre. Da allora l’idea si é diffusa in tutto il mondo, esaltata da tutti i giornali …

1952 | Staerck (Paris) The ’S’ Heel Source: URIC magazine # 92 (Summer/Winter 1952)

Actually we haven’t found the ’S’ heel - or better, an upside-down ‘8’ - anywhere else, but that doesn’t detract from it’s own originality. It is also sad to note that even Staerck is missing in action in spite being at the center of the fashion world.

A few years later, Staerck’s footsteps has been followed by Albanese Of Rome - a clever designer but not ashamed to adopt other people's ideas - with a streamlined version within a collection of metal heels.

Il tacco ad ’S’ - che poi é un ‘8’ rovesciato - in realtà non lo abbiamo trovato su nessun altra rivista, ma non per questo la sua originalità viene messa in discussione, anzi; serve invece segnalare come anche di Staerck si siano perse le tracce nonostante sfilasse a Parigi sotto gli occhi del mondo.

Chi lo ha seguito, qualche anno dopo, é stato Albanese di Roma - designer di talento, ma non nuovo a libere interpretazioni di idee altrui - che ne ha proposto una versione semplificata nell’ambito di una collezione con tacchi metallici.


HEELSTORY
HEEL HISTORY IN PICTURES

1960 | Albanese Of Rome Source: Istituto Luce

SURREAL SHOES

July 31, 2017, 5:33 am

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Even the homeliest objects caught Arp's eye. Something of a fetishist about shoes (he designed his own), he could walk for hours simply to get a better look at the cut of a heel or the contour of a sole glimpsed ahead of him, which would then appear in bas-reliefs, such as one Peggy (Guggenheim) was to buy called Overturned Blue Shoe with Two Heels Under a Black Vault.

Jacqueline Bograd Weld
From: Peggy. The Wayward Guggenheim (Dutton Books, 1986)

CA. 1925 | Jean Arp Overturned Blue Shoe with Two Heels Under a Black Vault Soulier bleu renversé à deux talons, sous une voûte noire Painted wood © 2017 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn Source: Guggenheim

Many Artists worked through the transition from realism to modernist abstraction by studying and emulating successful artist of their time. The goal was not to copy the masterworks by to learn structure and technique in the process of developing a personal style. This painting was the cover piece for the 1947-1948 Texas General Exhibition.

Source: Live Auctioneers

1946 | DeForrest Judd (1916 - 1992) Yellow Shoes (Oil On Masonite) Source: Live Auctioneers

1968 | Marisa Merz Untitled (Scarpetta/Little Shoe) Source: TATE

If the Shoe Fits is a large floor-based sculpture made from corrugated and flat sheets of galvanized steel. The work's title has prompted commentators to read its ambiguous shape as a solitary piece of oversized footwear, bereft of its partner.

Source: TATE 

1981 | Richard Deacon If The Shoe Fits Source: Lisson Gallery

Having considered a variety of materials -- including concrete and fiberglass - Murray chose laminated wood and a boatlike construction plainly visible inside the shoe. Constructed over the course of 1996 in Murray's New York studio, Red Shoe has brought to life a formerly forgotten corner of campus. It is an alluring place for children to climb, its smooth exterior giving way to a roughly hull-like interior, hinting at the enclosure of a nest or fort.

Source: Stuart Collection | UC San Diego

1996 | Elisabeth Murray (1940 - 2007) Red Shoe Source: Stuart Collection | UC San Diego

1998 | Elisabeth Murray (1940 - 2007) Shoe And Lace (Watercolor on Paper) Source: ArtNet

SHOES & ART
1932 - 2009

DESIGNER LUIGI PROVERBIO (YVES JEAN CLAUDE) INDEX

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1960 | Yves Jean Claude | Designed by Luigi Proverbio Source: Luigi Proverbio Archive Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

INTRODUCING DESIGNER LUIGI PROVERBIO
TANAGRA/YVES JEAN CLAUDE | CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN

DESIGNER LUIGI PROVERBIO
TANAGRA/YVES JEAN CLAUDE
THE BEGINNING

CALZATURIFICIO MONTENEVOSO
DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO 1964 - 1969

1970 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE
AS SEEN IN CALZATURE ITALIANE DI LUSSO MAGAZINE
PART 1 | PART 2

1970 | DESIGNER LUIGI PROVERBIO

FOR MIRELLA & LION (S. ELPIDIO A MARE)

1970'S | YVES JEAN CLAUDE

PLATFORMS

1975 - 1976 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE
PROTOTYPE CLOGS

2000 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE

DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

1960 | Yves Jean Claude | Designed by Luigi Proverbio Source: Luigi Proverbio Archive Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1960 | Yves Jean Claude | Designed by Luigi Proverbio Source: Luigi Proverbio Archive Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1960 | Yves Jean Claude | Designed by Luigi Proverbio Source: Luigi Proverbio Archive Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1961 | A. TESTONI | BOLOGNA

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1961 | A. Testoni | detail Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

A. TESTONI
BOLOGNA
I N D E X

1961 | A. Testoni | detail Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

Tabs make the suspenders fit well at the center back. The tie is a dotted silk design by Valentino Couture. The shoes are crocodile loafers by A. Testoni. While I’m dressing the TV is kept on to The Patty Winters Show. 

Brett Easton Ellis
From: American Psycho (Vintage Books, 1991)

The A. Testoni loafers are mentioned two other times next to an uninterrupted string of well known international fashion brands.

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1962 | A. TESTONI | BOLOGNA

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1962 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

A. TESTONI
BOLOGNA
I N D E X

1962 | Amedeo Testoni (center) Bologna

1963 | A. TESTONI | BOLOGNA

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1963 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

A. TESTONI
BOLOGNA
I N D E X

1963 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1964 | A. TESTONI | BOLOGNA

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1964 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1964 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

A. TESTONI
BOLOGNA
I N D E X

1964 | A. Testoni Bologna Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1952 | STAERCK | PARIS

August 22, 2017, 5:35 am

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1952 | Staerck (Paris) Pearl sandal and bracelet Source: URIC magazine # 92 (Summer/Winter 1952)

1952 | Staerck (Paris) Diamond encrusted sandal (left)  Source: URIC magazine # 92 (Summer/Winter 1952)

1952 | STAERCK
THE “S” HEEL

1952 | Staerck (Paris) Black Patent leather and yellow ochre Source: URIC magazine # 92 (Summer/Winter 1952)

1948 | DAVID EVINS | THE NAUGHTY SILHOUETTE | A REVOLUTIONARY V-CUT FOR I.MILLER

August 29, 2017, 8:46 am

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1948 | D.E. Levin A.K.A. David Evins Patent paperwork filed Aug. 22, 1947 - Granted March 23, 1948 Source: Google Patents

April 26, 1948 Evins pump as seen in LIFE magazine Photograph: Nina Leen Source: LIFE magazine

1948 | I. Miller invites you to meet Mr. David Evins Source: Philadelphia Inquirer | February 29, 1948

Evins Naughty Silhouette, sensational V-throat pump launched by us last year and hailed as "the shoe of the year". 

Source: I. Miller advertisement

Philadelphia Inquirer | February 29, 1948

Recently the complete Nina Leen photo-session was made available by Google Arts & Culture.

1948 | David Evins | The Naughty Silhouette Photograph: Nina Leen Source: Google Arts & Culture

1948 | David Evins Photograph: Nina Leen Source: Google Arts & Culture

1948 | David Evins | The Naughty Silhouette Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art Gift of David Evins

I.MILLER | DeLUXE SHOES
I N D E X

FOOTNOTE
While not hailed as revolutionary, the V-cut throat designed by James Kean for B. Altman & Co., NY predated Evins by a few months.

1947 | A bewitching minimum of shoe Designed by James Kean for B. Altman & Co.

1967 | TITANO | CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN

September 5, 2017, 1:09 am

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1967 | Titano Cerro Maggiore, Milan

1967 | Titano Cerro Maggiore, Milan

TITANO
CERRO MAGGIORE
I N D E X

1969 | Sciuccati's Titano | Insole detail Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1961 | CALZATURIFICIO ALPINO | VARESE

September 6, 2017, 11:13 pm

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1961 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

CALZATURIFICO ALPINO | VARESE
I N D E X

1961 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

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CALZATURIFICIO ALPINO | VARESE | INDEX

July 3, 2017, 1:32 am

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1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

ALPINO BY MACCHI & COVA

VARESE

1961

1962

1963

1963 | The Breathable Shoe

1964

1965

Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | CALZATURIFICIO ALPINO | VARESE

September 10, 2017, 12:40 am

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1962 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

CALZATURIFICO ALPINO | VARESE
I N D E X

1962 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | CALZATURIFICIO ALPINO | VARESE

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1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

CALZATURIFICO ALPINO | VARESE
I N D E X

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova Varese Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

HÜSKER DÜ’S GRANT HART (MARCH 18, 1961 - SEPTEMBER 14, 2017)

September 14, 2017, 7:12 am

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June 2102 | Grant Hart (1961 - 2017) Photograph: Paul Hilcoff (Third AV)

I can't cry, I can't apply a word to sum it up
Under stress I can't repress the moment it erupts
Hear the sound of paper drums and shredded paper voice
Got to turn up 'Keep Hanging On' as if I had a choice 

Prairie fires and pitchfork choirs inspire as they create
Turn it up, It's too far down, until we can relate
Minnesota New Day Rising first day in the store
Take the couch at someone's house and wait around to score 

Nervous children making millions: you owe it all to them
Power trios with big-ass deals: you opened for it then
I can see, I can see, I can see it all with my one good eye
For a start take two Grant Harts and call me when you die 

“Grant Hart” by The Posies
(From: Amazing Disgrace - Geffen, 1996)
Written by Jonathan Paul Auer, Ken Stringfellow

1984 | Hüsker Dü in Chicago Source: Third Av/Paul Hilcoff

2011 | Grant Hart At Workman's Club | Dublin Artwork by Gavin Beattie

1963 | THE BREATHABLE SHOE BY CALZATURIFICIO ALPINO

September 18, 2017, 12:39 am

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1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino The Breathable Shoe Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino The Breathable Shoe Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

The "health shoe - ventilated” 

Keeps the foot cool, get rid of burns and bad smells. Try it.
These models, brought to you by the Calzaturificio Alpino, feature a brand new technique in men’s footwear. 

The "health shoe - ventilated” allows for the most complete foot ventilation. Prevents overheating and thus eliminates sweat, bad smells and tiredness.
It is the ideal shoe for those who suffer from these disadvantages. The air filters through the holes inserted in the upper, sole and insole, and by forced circulation, cools the foot. 

For the summer season, when warm weather and walking make you sick and uncomfortable, try this shoe, the "shoe of health - ventilated”; it will be a relief!
Patent No. 5930-62 

1963 | Advertising Calzaturificio Alpino - Varese
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

Itgoes without saying it wasn’t “a brand new technique in men’s footwear”, Aerata Medusa did it first back in 1933 but they were done & dusted by the Fourties. Also, someone else invented the same breathable shoe in more recent times.

Ovviamente la scarpa che respira non era affatto una novità: il marchio Aerata Medusa l’aveva brevettata trent’anni prima, ma già’ nel decennio successivo se ne erano perse le tracce. La stessa idea/concetto é stata nuovamente inventata in tempi più recenti.

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino The Breathable Shoe Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

CALZATURIFICO ALPINO | VARESE
I N D E X

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino The Breathable Shoe Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine