Quantcast
Channel: TheHistorialist
Viewing all 405 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

THE SHOE FACTORY ELIO | LUINO | VARESE | PART 3

March 4, 2016, 12:08 am
$
0
0
1963 | Calzaturificio Elio



WHAT'S LEFT?

Not much. Elio/Luino's headquarter and plants were torn down some years ago to make way for a large hotel complex, of which there is still no trace. As ironic as it sounds, the shoe factory Borri met a better fate: the headquarter is still standing although the latest from town hall are bad news: partial demolition and the area zoned for residential/commercial use.


COS'É RIMASTO?

Non molto. Persino la struttura del Calzaturificio Elio, che aveva attraversato l’intero ‘900, è stata abbattuta da parecchi anni con l’obiettivo di costruire grandi strutture alberghiere di cui ancora non c’è traccia. Suona ironico dire che al Calzaturificio Borri sia andata meglio: la vecchia sede marcisce lentamente in attesa di una nuova destinazione urbanistica. Le ultime volontà dell’amministrazione comunale sembrano orientate ad uno sconfortante abbattimento (parziale) e trasformazione ad uso commerciale/residenziale dell’intera area.




1963 | Calzaturificio Elio

1963 | Left: Calzaturificio Elio
Right: Calzaturificio Molaschi

1963 | Calzaturificio Elio

1963 | Calzaturificio Elio


THE SHOE FACTORY ELIO | LUINO | VARESE

PART 1

PART 2

PART 3



SOURCES:

A. Bertoni et al. “Cotton & C.. Storia industriale di Busto Arsizio”, ed. by Unione degli Industriali della Provincia di Varese, 2001

Archivio Centrale dello Stato - Marchi di Fabbrica

Per l’ ”Elio”, Mario e Carlo Ambrosetti in Biografie Verbanensi (Magazzeno Storico Verbanense)

EMCI (Ente Moda Calzatura Italiana - Bologna) Catalogues

Calzature Italiane di Lusso Magazine

↧
Search

U P D A T E S

March 5, 2016, 10:43 pm
$
0
0
1958 | Best Selling Shoes in Washington
Shoe # 1 from the brand Margaret Jerrold
Source: CNP


ALDO SACCHETTI
I N D E X 

STEPPIN IN HER I. MILLER SHOES
ISRAEL MILLER - DELUXE SHOES

CUTTING EDGE DESIGN
THE JAGGED SOLE [A.K.A. RIPPLE SOLE]

OTTORINO BOSSI & PEGABO
EVERYTHING BUT SHOE MAKER

CALZATURIFICIO BORRI
3MST | 3 METRI SOTTOTERRA

THE SHOE FACTORY BORRI
THE BEGINNING

THE SHOE FACTORY BORRI
1972 COLLECTION

1938 | LEANDRE GREGOIRE RENALDO
THE SPLIT PLATFORM | PARIS

1950 - 1951 | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

1957 | VIGEVANO
20TH INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR EXHIBITION

1967 | SULTANA
VIGEVANO



1958 | Best Selling Shoes in Chicago
Source: CNP
1958 | Best Selling Shoes in Boston
Source: CNP

1958 | Best Selling Shoes in Dallas
Source: CNP

All the pictures above from CNP (Comitato Nazionale per la Produttività - National productivity Council), 2nd semester 1958, an Italian research about American trends in footwear and accessories.

↧
↧

ANNA BORSANI | VIGEVANO

March 8, 2016, 12:13 am
$
0
0

1969 | Anna Borsani designs
The Oscar Winner Collection
Source: Moda in Pelle magazine


In the 1960s and 1970s Anna Borsani from Vigevano was one of the few female shoe designers in Italy. Furthermore, she was the only one to win twice the Footwear Oscar awarded by Turin's International Footwear Academy. Here below an incomplete list of her awards:

- Gold Medal in 1966 awarded by the International Footwear Academy

- 1967 Oscar for best Woman’s Footwear design by the International Footwear Academy of Turin

- 1969 Oscar for best Woman’s Footwear design by the International Footwear Academy of Turin

- 1971 “Golden Boot” prize awarded at the Florence Fair



1969 | Anna Borsani | Detail
One of the Oscar Winner designs, with a two-tones geometric heel
Source: Moda in Pelle magazine

1971 | Anna Borsani designs
She won her second Oscar with a collection inspired by the Napoleonic style. 
Cut-out boot & belt set, cut-out buttoned shoe. 
Source: Ars Sutoria

1971 | Anna Borsani 
Another design from her Oscar winner collection: an open back  sandal with a wide ankle 
strap, decorated with a metal plate. Also noteworthy the shape of the heel.
Source: Ars Sutoria

1971 | Anna Borsani (left) and Dino Borsani (right) 
Husband & wife team in Vigevano 
Source: Ars Sutoria

1966 | Anna Borsani and Enotrio Nembro
The two designer from Vigevano were both awarded in 1966. Nembro received the plaque by the 
Riviera del Brenta district. 
Mrs. Borsani won the Golden Medal by the International Footwear Academy of Turin. 
Source: Oscar Awards Catalogue by the International Footwear Academy of Turin.


THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN
FOOTWEAR OSCAR AWARD
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3


1966 | Anna Borsani awarded with the Oscar by then 
Secretary of State Carlo Donat Cattin
Source: Oscar Awards Catalogue by the International Footwear Academy of Turin.


↧

1967 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO

March 10, 2016, 12:21 am
$
0
0
1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi

1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi

1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi

1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi

1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi


1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi



ALDROVANDI | Vigevano
I N D E X

1953 - 1963
THE ITALIAN STILETTO HEEL GALLERY





1967 | ALDROVANDI | by Gino Aldrovandi

↧

1970 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO | PART 1

March 12, 2016, 12:43 am
$
0
0
1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
A model from the collection awarded with the Footwear Oscar
Vigevano

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
A model awarded with Footwear Oscar
Vigevano | Shoe on the far right of the below picture

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi


Models from the collection awarded with the Footwear Oscar
Vigevano

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi


A model from the collection awarded with the Footwear Oscar
Vigevano | Shoe on the far left of the above picture

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi


A model from the collection awarded with the Footwear Oscar
Vigevano


ALDROVANDI | Vigevano
I N D E X

1953 - 1963
THE ITALIAN STILETTO HEEL GALLERY



1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Purple kid laced ankle boot
Vigevano

↧
↧

1970 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO | PART 2

March 14, 2016, 1:41 am
$
0
0
1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine


1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine


1970 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO
PART 1

ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO
I N D E X



1970 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

↧

1971 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO

March 16, 2016, 1:25 am
$
0
0
1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano

___________________________

ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO
___________________________



1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

↧

1973 | ALDO SACCHETTI FOR ENRICA SANLORENZO | PART 2

March 18, 2016, 1:30 am
$
0
0
1973 | Aldo Sacchetti for Enrica Sanlorenzo | S/S collection
Slingback pump with a heel of transparent Perspex and natural wood covered with leather
Source: Amica Magazine


ROME 1973
Haute couture spring/summer fashion shows at the prestigious Grand Hotel Ritz (now St. Regis). Enrica Massei (then with the family name Sanlorenzo) showcased her narrow-waisted designs with clean lines, wide, soft pants, pleated skirts and sharp colors from white, powder pink, blue to bois de rose and green.
The fashion reporter Lucia Sollazzo acknowledged her show as “the most beautiful, the truest among Roman fashion shows” (La Stampa daily, January, 20th)

ROMA 1973
Presentazione delle collezioni alta moda primavera-estate nel prestigioso salone Ritz del Grand Hotel (oggi St.Regis). Enrica Massei (ai tempi ancora Sanlorenzo) fece sfilare i propri modelli a vita stretta con pantaloni larghi e morbidi, gonne plissettate e linee essenziali dai colori netti bianco, cipria, blu, bois de rose, alle. 
Lucia Sollazzo le attribuì il merito di aver creato “la più bella, la più vera delle uscite romane” (La Stampa, 20 Gennaio).



1973 | Enrica Sanlorenzo S/S collection | A typical piece of the early 70s, the chemisier. 
Here in blue color over a white dress with a pleated skirt.
Shoes by Aldo Sacchetti
Slingback pump with heel made of transparent Perspex and natural wood covered with blue leather
Source: Ars Sutoria


Aldo Sacchetti designed the shoes for the Turin's fashion house. A Perugia-inspired articulated sole sandal caught the general attention but it wasn't the only one. A classic slingback, with colors matching the dresses and a peculiar heel got noticed:
"Orthopedic soles (if used) is one centimeter high, the heel is seven to nine centimeters at most. But it seems lower for an optical illusion. It is made of transparent perspex, with the upper band dyed in the same leather color, chevrot, blue canard, bricky, powder pink, green."  
[La Stampa daily, Jan 19th]


Aldo Sacchetti curò la produzione delle calzature per la casa di moda torinese. Parte dell'attenzione generale era andata ai sandali dalla suola articolata, che recuperavano un brevetto di André Perugia. Ma anche un altro modello non passò inosservato. Niente di più della classica décolleté tipo Chanel, in tinta con gli abiti. Il tacco in particolare però catturò l’attenzione della stampa:
"La suola ortopedica (quando c'è) è di un centimetro, il tacco si ferma ai sette-nove centimetri. «Ma sembra più basso per un'illusione ottica ». E' in perspex trasparente, tinto nella fascia superiore nello stesso colore della pelle, chevrot blu canard, mattone, cipria, verde."  
[La Stampa, 19 gennaio]


1973 | Aldo Sacchetti for Enrica Sanlorenzo | detail
Slingback pump with a heel made of transparent Perspex and natural wood covered with blue leather
Source: Ars Sutoria


And then some:
“To refine and to neutralize the height of the heel, Aldo Sacchetti designed for Enrica Sanlorenzo two-tone shoes, as the leather covers the half of the natural wood heel” 
[La Stampa newspaper, Jan 19th] 

“A note of originality in the classic pump with medium height heel: the heel is equally divided between the sobriety of the blue and the glow of perspex” 
[Ars Sutoria magazine]



E ancora:
“Ad ingentilire, a neutralizzare l'altezza del tacco, Aldo Sacchetti ha disegnato per Enrica Sanlorenzo scarpe bicolori, nel senso che la pelle copre metà del tacco in legno naturale.” 
[La Stampa, 19 gennaio] 
“Spunto di originalità nel décolleté classico ad altezza media di Sacchetti: il tacco si divide equamente fra la sobrietà del blu ed il lucore del perspex” 
[Ars Sutoria magazine]


1973 | ALDO SACCHETTI FOR SANLORENZO | PART 1
THE ARTICULATED SOLE

1973 | ALDO SACCHETTI FOR ENRICA SANLORENZO | PART 3

ALDO SACCHETTI
I N D E X


↧
Search

1973 | ALDO SACCHETTI FOR ENRICA SANLORENZO | PART 3

March 20, 2016, 12:58 am
$
0
0
The January 1973's Spring-Summer collection created by Enrica San Lorenzo (Enrica Massei) for the High Fashion catwalks in Rome had been a success, as well as the shoes designed by Aldo Sacchetti to accompany the shows.
Two months later, the then young designer showcased a ready-to-wear collection for the fall-winter season hosted at Florence's Palazzo Pitti, once again with Aldo Sacchetti models.

La collezione primavera-estate creata da Enrica Sanlorenzo per le sfilate dell’alta moda romana nel gennaio 1973 era stata un successo, così come le calzature create da Aldo Sacchetti per accompagnare gli abiti.
A marzo l’allora giovane stilista tornò in scena con le collezioni prêt-à-porter per l’autunno-inverno, presentate a Palazzo Pitti, sempre accompagnata dai modelli di Aldo Sacchetti.


1973 | Aldo Sacchetti for Enrica Sanlorenzo
Rust color, one centimeter high sole, straight and large heel. 
Edges turned down and English style decoration over the collar and the tip of the shoe.
Source: Ars Sutoria

“The young Turin stylist is almost the only one offering, and with a careful effort, an unprecedented change in jackets and suits, balancing straight skirts and pants, shiny and wadge-shaped helmets by Maria Volpi, for a springing and finally happy image. 
The long coats, with important shoulders, waist narrowed by the belt, the hipes underlined, the large collars are raised to make the head small, get along with suits, raincoats, casual hat on glacé leather as the original boots by Aldo Sacchetti, with a new non-slip sole of car tire : always in the lively bricky color that flips from burnt sienna to orange » 
Lucia Sollazzo, La Stampa newspaper, March 30, 1973

“La giovane stilista torinese è pressoché l'unica ad averci offerto, e con accurato impegno, una variazione inedita del giaccone e del tailleur, equilibrando gonne diritte e pantaloni con i levigati, lucenti caschetti a spicchi di Maria Volpi, per un'immagine balzante e finalmente allegra.

I giacconi lunghi, con le spalle importanti hanno la vita stretta dalla cintura ed i fianchi in evidenza, i colli ampi sono rialzati per rendere piccolo il capo, vanno d'accordo con i tailleurs, impermeabile, il cappellaccio casuale in pelle glacé come gli originali stivali firmati da Aldo Sacchetti, dall'inedita suola antisdrucciolo in pneumatico d'automobile: sempre nel vivacissimo color mattone che svaria dal bruciato all'arancio. “

Lucia Sollazzo in La Stampa, 30 marzo 1973


1973 | Enrica Sanlorenzo (Enrica Massei) 
F/W ready-to-wear collection
Source: Ars Sutoria


Aldo Sacchetti's shoes and Enrica Sanlorenzo's outfit of the above photos where so described by Ars Sutoria:
"A collection, Enrica Sanlorenzo’s, under the sign of very timely rust and its variants: carrot, orange, mango. Other features are the graphic design placed asymmetrically, the belt for pulling in the waist, the little head with its cap rising out of the broad raised collar. In glazed skin these shoes with the collar-like edges turned down entirely surrounded like the toe-cap with English style perforations. They’re by Sacchetti. Coloured inserts accent the horizontal projection of the purse by Mangiameli" 
ORIGINAL TRANSLATION BY Ars Sutoria (No. 104, 1973)


Le calzature di Sacchetti e gli abiti Sanlorenzo vennero così descritti dalla rivista Ars Sutoria: 
“Una collezione, quella di Enrica Sanlorenzo, all’insegna attualissima del ruggine (e sue varianti: carota, arancio, mango) Altre caratteristiche: il disegno grafico posto asimmetricamente, la cintura a stringere la vita, la testa piccola nella sua casquette che sorge dal collo ampio e rialzato. In pelle glacé le calzature con bordo rivoltato “a colletto”, tutto circondato, come il puntale, da trafori all’inglese: sono di Sacchetti. Inserti colorati accentuano la proiezione orizzontale della borsa di Mangiameli.” 
Ars Sutoria n. 104, 1973


1973 | ALDO SACCHETTI FOR SANLORENZO
PART 1: THE ARTICULATED SOLE

1973 | ALDO SACCHETTI FOR ENRICA SANLORENZO
PART 2

ALDO SACCHETTI
I N D E X



FOOTNOTE

While we are unfit as English teachers, it may be useful for the readers to know that when they wrote "under the sign of very timely rust and its variants: carrot, orange, mango.." they actually meant the (then) hip color rust and all its shades like carrot, orange..


↧
↧

1972 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO

March 22, 2016, 2:01 am
$
0
0
1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi | detail
Vigevano

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi | detail
Vigevano

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano

1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi
Vigevano


___________________________

ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO
___________________________



1971 | Aldrovandi by Gino Aldrovandi | detail
Vigevano
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine

↧

1972 - 1973 | AMICA | PALERMO

March 24, 2016, 2:40 am
$
0
0
1972 | Shoe factory AMICA by Carmelo Graziano
Palermo

1972 | Shoe factory AMICA by Carmelo Graziano
Palermo

1973 | Shoe factory AMICA by Carmelo Graziano | detail
Designed by Pasquale Penne
Palermo

1973 | Shoe factory AMICA by Carmelo Graziano | detail
Designed by Pasquale Penne
Palermo

1973 | Shoe factory AMICA by Carmelo Graziano
Designed by Pasquale Penne
Palermo


1973

ZEPPE (A.K.A. PLATFORMS)
I WISH THEY WOULD GO AWAY
PART 1

SUPREMELY DANGEROUS
PLATFORM SHOES IN KING'S ROAD | PART 1

MAJOR CATASTROPHES
WINDOW SHOPPING IN KING'S ROAD | PART 2



AMICA by Carmelo Graziano
Palermo

↧

DANGLING SHOES (A.K.A. SHOEFITI) | WHEN IN ROME [FEAT. BRUCE CHATWIN]

March 26, 2016, 2:09 am
$
0
0
The term "shoefiti", a composite of shoe and graffiti referring to the act of flinging shoes over a telephone wire or power wire to hang by their laces, is considered to be a global example of ostensive behavior. 
Gail de Vos
What Happens Next? Contemporary Urban Legends and Popular Culture (ABC - Clio, 2012)

Dangling Shoes A.K.A. Shoe Tossing A.K.A. Shoefiti

On the way we passed pink-eared elephants, brick-kilns and churches that looked like Chinese pagodas. Most of the slogans were welcoming. But from time to time a string of old shoes was suspended across the road: the worst of all Hindu insults.
One graffito read, ‘Indira Gandhi is a notorious fascist witch'. 
Bruce Chatwin
What Am I Doing Here (Viking Books, 1989)


Shoefiti in the Bronx

These sneakers tossed over wires in the Bronx denote a) a crack den; b) loss of virginity; c) run-of-the-mill bullying; or d) the urban myth of your choice. 
March 2, 2014

When driving along the bumpy streets of Munsieville, a township near Johannesburg, one cannot help but notice the shoes dangling at regular intervals from wires strung high across the road. Tennis shoes, boots, children's shoes of various sizes, single ones or pairs - a surreal sight. What are those perfectly good shoes doing up there? 
Who in this poor neighborhood can do without shoes, and even to go the trouble of hanging them way up there? Our driver's explanation silences all cheerful attempts at guessing the answer: the shoes mark the borders between territories that are controlled by different drug gangs. They are a warning to those who do not follow the gangs' law: you won't be needing your shoes any longer. 
Eva Pattis Zoja
Sandplay Therapy in Vulnerable Communities: A Jungian Approach (Routledge, 2011)

Source: 1001 Amazing Things


They have been a common sight above the streets of Bristol for many years, but to most their meaning has been a mystery. Dangling from telephone wires, shoes can be found suspended by their laces above terraced roads everywhere from St George to St Andrew's. 
To some, they are simply an eyesore. But for police there is a more sinister explanation for their presence – they believe they reveal the locations where illegal drugs can be bought. Officers have now hired a cherry picker to remove shoes hanging from wires in St Paul's and St Werburgh's. 
Marc Rath
Bristol Post, October 27, 2014

Interesting to note that officers removed the hanging shoes, not the illegal locations. Anyway, besides an Hindu insult and a crack house street sign there's much more. Shoe-flinging/tossing can also be found everywhere. Even album jackets.



Great Plains - Dick Clark 7" EP
(Shadowline Records, 1987)
Source: Discogs

… but I walked faster, our shaded unit traveling as one, until it split when I ambled in front of the bar, just below the dangling tennis shoes still suspended from the sky, still perched over the wire, still providing notice to drug addicts of where to get their fix; only now, they were drenched with darkened exhaust from car engines, cigarette ash floating out from open windows on third-floor apartments, and acid rain. 
Elisabeth L. Silver
The Execution of Noa P. Singleton (Headline, 2013)


Shoefiti in Springfield
Source: flickr

↧

U P D A T E S

March 28, 2016, 12:57 am
$
0
0
1938 | Franco Malinverno | Milan
Shoe labels
Source: URIC magazine


... AND THE WINNERS ARE ... | IT'S TURIN NOT HOLLYWOOD
THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN FOOTWEAR OSCAR | PART 1

... AND THE WINNERS ARE ... | IT'S TURIN NOT HOLLYWOOD
THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN FOOTWEAR OSCAR | PART 2

FRATELLI NEBULONI/SHOE FACTORY MILENA
1971 | FOOTWEAR OSCAR AWARD

ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO
HISTORY OF

1969 | ALDROVANDI
VIGEVANO

THE SHOE FACTORY MILENA
BY FRATELLI NEBULONI

THE SHOE FACTORY MARCOZ
PARABIAGO, MILAN

THE SHOE FACTORY ALFIERE
CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN

1971/1972 | ALFIERE
THE HAIR COLLECTION BY DEODATO

PARABIAGO'S FOOTWEAR EXHIBITION [1954-1960]
PART 1 | PART 2

MANOLO BLAHNIK & SALVATORE DEODATO
THE WACKY PLATFORMS


1938 | Modarte | Padova
Shoe labels
Source: URIC magazine

1938 | A. Tabini | Parabiago, Milan
Wooden Shoe lasts
Source: URIC magazine

1938 | Nuncas | Milan
White Shoe Cream
Source: URIC magazine

↧
↧

1972 | JULY | COLETTE FOR BIKI | HAUTE COUTURE ROME

March 30, 2016, 12:35 am
$
0
0
1972 | Colette for Biki | Detail
White lace-up ankle boot with a zipper on the inside
Source: Ars Sutoria


The "Saint Moritz" collection by the Biki atelier was showcased at the Roman haute couture shows in July 1972. It was designed by Alain Renaud and characterized by lively outfits in the style of winter holidays, accompanied by leather vests and studded jackets.

Parabiago's shoe factory Colette created the models for the collection. 
The picture above shows a detail of a white laced boot with a side zipper (picture below). The last photograph shows a pair of boots with ankle strap and a golden chain along with a classic pump decorated with a stud and a thin chain.


La collezione “Saint Moritz” dell’atelier milanese Biki fu presentata in occasione delle sfilate romane dell’alta moda nel luglio 1972. Era stata disegnata da Alain Renaud ed era caratterizzata da abbigliamenti dopo-sci sbarazzini, accompagnati da gilet e giubbini in pelle e dal motivo ricorrente delle borchie. 

Il calzaturificio Colette aveva creato le calzature che accompagnavano la collezione. 
Il dettaglio rappresenta uno stivaletto bianco e stringato, ma con cerniera lampo laterale (visibile nella foto completa qui sotto); Nell'ultima foto un paio di stivali decorati con un cinturino e catenella alla caviglia; una décolleté classica, decorata con borchia e catenella.



1972 | BIKI | Aprés-ski style from the "Saint Moritz" collection
Ankle Boots by Colette
Source: Ars Sutoria

1973 | COLETTE FOR BIKI
HAUTE COUTURE ROME

COLETTE
I N D E X


1972 | Colette for Biki
A pair of black boots decorated with a golden chain and a classic pump with a stud and a thin chain
Source: Ars Sutoria

↧

XIV CENTURY | POULAINE A.K.A. CRACOWES [FEAT. LENINGRAD COWBOYS]

April 2, 2016, 12:31 am
$
0
0
In France the clothing of the foot has always been a subject of special consideration, and many have been the styles that have emanated from there. Among the first was the long pointed shoe, called the poulaine, in England named crakowes. (This name, poulaine, seems to indicate that the fashion came from Poland, though the pointed shoe is supposed to be of Eastern origin.)


XIV Century | Gentleman's poulain shoe
Source: Histoire Du La Chaussure by Paul Lacroix
(Adolphe Delahays Libraire-Editeur, Paris 1862)

These shoes grew both in favor and length, for a number of years, until the poulaine had reached such proportions that it was necessary to fasten it to the knee by means of a chain of gold or silver, while in order to keep it in shape it had to be stuffed with hay, straw or fine moss.



XIV Century | Poulain with metal chain to secure the pointed toe
Source: Histoire Du La Chaussure by Paul Lacroix
(Adolphe Delahays Libraire-Editeur, Paris 1862)

The length of the poulaine was determined in the same manner as the of the chopines, by the rank of the wearer, and it was no uncommon sight to find a nobleman with his poulaine some twelve inches or more in extent, while the upper part of his shoes would be cut out to imitate the windows of a church. 
This fashion flourished for a long time despite the anathemas of the bishops, who stigmatized them as immoral, and the denunciations of officials. 
Walter H. Goater
A Short Treatise On Boots And Shoes
(J. & J. Slater, 1884)


XIV Century | Poulain boot
Source: Histoire Du La Chaussure by Paul Lacroix
(Adolphe Delahays Libraire-Editeur, Paris 1862)


NOW FAST-FORWARD 500 HUNDRED YEARS

The poulaine lives a second life as they are (were?) the footwear of choice by a bunch of wodka-fuelled musicians from Finland called Leningrad Cowboys. The ONLY footgear available to match their pompadour hairstyle.



Leningrad Cowboys

Initially a little more than a joke from the minds of director Aki Kaurismäki and members of the long running novelty rock band Sleepy Sleepers, they developed into a full ensemble playing everything from punk to polka with latin flavors and metal licks, usually within the same song.


Leningrad Cowboys

Leningrad Cowboys - These Boots CD Single
(Plutonium Records, 1993)
Source: Discogs

At some point it was inevitable a rendition of the Nancy Sinatra classic "These Boots Are Made For Walking" and subsequent video directed by Kaurismäki. 


A newly-born Leningrad Cowboy | Still frame from the video
"These Boots" by Leningrad Cowboys
Source: YouTube


FOOTNOTE

Fashion works in strange ways and the poulaine travelled from Finland to Mexico back in 2009
"apparently caused by rivalries between youths from ranches surrounding Matehuala, a city of eighty thousand inhabitants in north-central Mexico. In such rural towns “there has always been a tendency to compete over who has the best pickup trucks, hats, and now boots,” a San Luis Potosí interviewee in Texas explained." 
Helena Simonett/César Burgos Dávila


Guarachero Boots
Photograph: Edith Valle


From there the boots found their way into dance clubs and rodeo dance floors. They are now called Guarechero and the Mexicans - some of them at least - think they have invented it.
We follow the fashion trend of the pointy boots. They were invented here. The've been around for about a year. I think this fashion started with the music. Tribal music brought the pointy boots. In the beginning, people were using regular boots. Then people started making them pointier and pointier, until it got out of control. 
From: Mexican Pointy Boots - 2012


Mexican Pointy Boots - 2012

A symbol of the naco par excellence in many people’s view, the boot transformed into a most intriguing artwork in the hands of Cindy Santos Bravo, a Texan-Mexican visual artist who likes “mash-ups of disparate ideas that re-assign traditional signifiers into a progressed codified existence.” 
Her piece “Terrestrial”, a sculpture made of feathers and pointy boots that resembles an agave plant, was part of the 2013 MexiCali Biennial in Los Angeles and Mexicali that understands itself as a dynamic platform for creating new channels of communication between artists and audiences in the United States and Mexico. 
Helena Simonett/César Burgos Dávila


2013 | Cindy Santos Bravo | Terrestrial
in collaboration with pointy boot producer Alberto Sánchez Garza, Monterrey

↧
Search

1955 | CLEMA | VIGEVANO

April 4, 2016, 12:07 am
$
0
0

1955 | Clema, Vigevano | logo
Source: Catalogue of the 18th National Shoe Fair of Vigevano

1955 | Clema, Vigevano
Source: Catalogue of the 18th National Shoe Fair of Vigevano

1955 | Clema, Vigevano
Source: Catalogue of the 18th National Shoe Fair of Vigevano

1955 | Clema, Vigevano
Source: Catalogue of the 18th National Shoe Fair of Vigevano

1955 | Clema, Vigevano
Source: Catalogue of the 18th National Shoe Fair of Vigevano


CLEMA
VIGEVANO

1950

1956 - 1958

1963
PART 1 | PART 2



1955 | Clema by Clemente Pietro Bellazzi
Vigevano


↧

SHAKESPEARE 400 | THE COBBLER

April 6, 2016, 12:22 am
$
0
0
Models of Ancient Roman Sandals. 1675 - 79 | detail
Joachim Von Sandrart. German 1606-1688. Engraving.

From:
William Shakespeare's Julius Caesar
[The Modern Library, New York - Edited by Jonathan Bate and Eric Rasmussen - 2011]

MURELLUS
Where is thy leather apron and thy rule?
What dost thou with thy best apparel on?
—You, sir, what trade are you?

COBBLER
Truly, sir, in respect of a fine workman, I am but, as you would say, a cobbler.

MURELLUS
But what trade art thou? Answer me directly.

COBBLER
A trade, sir, that I hope I may use with a safe conscience, which is, indeed, sir, a mender of bad soles.



Models of Ancient Roman Sandals. 1675 - 79 | detail
Joachim Von Sandrart. German 1606-1688. Engraving.


MURELLUS
What trade, thou knave? Thou naughty knave, what trade?

COBBLER
Nay, I beseech you, sir, be not out with me. Yet, if you be out, sir, I can mend you.

MURELLUS
What mean’st thou by that? “Mend” me, thou saucy fellow?

COBBLER
Why, sir, cobble you.

FLAVIUS
Thou art a cobbler, art thou?

COBBLER
Truly, sir, all that I live by is with the awl. I meddle with no tradesman’s matters nor women’s matters, but withal I am indeed, sir, a surgeon to old shoes. When they are in great danger, I recover them. As proper men as ever trod upon neat’s leather have gone upon my handiwork.

FLAVIUS
But wherefore art not in thy shop today?
Why dost thou lead these men about the streets?

COBBLER
Truly, sir, to wear out their shoes to get myself into more work. But indeed, sir, we make holiday to see Caesar and to rejoice in his triumph.



1953 | Julius Caesar directed by Joseph .L. Mankiewicz (MGM)
Starring Marlon Brando as Mark Antony
Source: Histolines


FOOTNOTE

The cobbler appears in the first scene in the play. His function is to annoy Flavius and Marullus, who are not at all pleased that Julius Caesar is returning to Rome after defeating Pompey’s army.

From: Identify And Explain The Cobbler's Puns


SHAKESPEARE

↧
↧

CHELSEA BOOT/BEATLE BOOT: THE ORIGIN, THE STORY & THE LEGACY

April 8, 2016, 12:56 am
$
0
0
PROLOGUE

This is a little like prehistory, because almost nobody in America then had heard of the Rolling Stones - or the Beatles. At Jane Holzer’s dinner I’d noticed (David) Bailey and Mick (Jagger). 
They each had a distinctive way of dressing: Bailey all in black, and Mick in light-colored, unlined suits with very tight hip trousers and striped T-shirts, just regular Carnaby Street sport clothes, nothing expensive, but it was the way he put things together that was so great—this pair of shoes with that pair of pants that no one else would have thought to wear. And, of course, Bailey and Mick were both wearing boots by Anello and Davide, the dance shoemaker in London. 
Andy Warhol & Pat Hackett - POPism. The Warhol Sixties.
(Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1980)


1986 | Andy Warhol
Beatle Boots (Negative)
Sold by Christie's for $ 722,500 (November 11, 2009)

Before Mod and the Beat Boom, before Carnaby Street and the swinging hotspots of Soho and Chelsea, before, indeed, sex and drugs and most of rock ‘n’ roll, there were the laddish young photographers from the East: Bailey, Brian Duffy and Terence Donovan – ‘The Terrible Three’, in the affectionate phrase of Cecil Beaton, an iconoclastic snapper of another age whose approval of the new lot made it that much easier for them to barge in on what had been a very exclusive and sedate party … 
… partly it was his (David Bailey) bohemian style Cuban-heeled boots, jeans, leather jacket and hair over the ears – all before the Beatles had been heard of; partly it was his aptitude for the craft. 
Shawn Levy
Ready, Steady, Go! Swinging London and the Invention of Cool.
(William Collins, 2002)




THE ELASTIC BOOT (CHELSEA BOOT FORERUNNER)


1846 | Joseph Sparkes Hall | Elastic Boot
Source: The Book Of Feet


About ten years since I first thought of an Elastic Boot, that might possibly remedy in a great measure all these minor evils, and combine many advantages never possessed by any former boot. I am not, however, sure that an Elastic Boot was not known at a very early period in England … 
My first experiments were a failure, as the manufacture of elastic materials was not so perfect as they are at the present period, and the necessary elasticity cold not be gained in any material I could meet with. The difficulty was to get an India Rubber Web so elastic that the boot would go on and off, and yet not so soft and yielding as that it would not return again to its original form — my object being not only that but that they should "sit plain," and "fit fetously," as well after they were on. 
Joseph Sparkes Hall
The Book Of The Feet. A History Of Boots And Shoes
(Simpkin, Marshall & Co., 1846)


1846 | Joseph Sparkes Hall
Elastic Boot Maker to The Queen
Source: The Book Of The Feet


Her Majesty has been pleased to honor the invention with the most marked and continued patronage; it has been my privilege for some years to make boots of this kind for Her Majesty, and no one who reads the court circular, or is acquainted with Her Majesty's habits of walking and exercise in the open air, can doubt the superior claims of the elastic over every other kind of boots; it has been well remarked "the road to health is a foot path." 
Joseph Sparkes Hall
The Book Of The Feet. A History Of Boots And Shoes
(Simpkin, Marshall & Co., 1846)



1896 | Elastic Boot styles

The Elastic Boot for Gentlemen, is a light and easy article; it does not encumber the leg, and unlike the half-and-half clarence with its valve of folded leather and all kinds of holes and contrivances it fits the ankle like a stocking, and readily yields and elasticates to every motion of the feet and legs. 
The cut represents an elastic boot with a golosh of leather all round, the upper part being cloth, silk, prunella, cashmere, kid, or the silk stocking net; the material generally determining the kind of boot it is to be, and the thickness of the sole. 
Joseph Sparkes Hall
The Book Of The Feet. A History Of Boots And Shoes
(Simpkin, Marshall & Co., 1846)





THE CRAZE BEGINS

I must say that, considering our relative youth and great inexperience, we were a pretty hot act for the time. As a band, like a thousand others, we all went to a shoe shop called Anello & Davide and got ourselves Beatle boots, which were basically Spanish dancing boots (they're also known as Chelsea boots). They were a cool thing before the Beatles, but afterwards they were mandatory. 
Mick Fletwood (Fletwood Mac founder)
Play On (Little, Brown and Company, 2014)


Anello & Davide | Handmade shoes

When Runciman enquired about their ‘different, unEnglish style clothes’, John (Lennon) said ‘We’re all mad about clothes – they’ve got some great styles in Paris’, and then they all showed him their boots. Handmade at Anello & Davide, these were describable several ways – Spanish flamenco, Chelsea, elastic-sided, pointy-toed, Cuban-heeled – but were becoming one thing: The Beatle Boot. And here were eight of them. 
Mark Lewisohn
The Beatles Tune In (Little, Brown Book Group, 2013)


1964 | The Beatles | Heart & Soles in Paris
Photograph: Jean-Marie Perier
Source: 1stdibs.

But in The Beatles Anthology book George (Harrison) added, ‘The first pair of those boots I ever saw was on that [Decca] trip.’ The Beatles weren’t the first pop musicians to wear such boots (not that they ever claimed otherwise). There are several examples to prove this - one being the back page of the NME, 2 December 1960, which has a photo of Cliff Richard trying on ‘a lightweight Toreador ankle boot’ brought back to London for him from Italy. The Anello & Davide boot seen by the Beatles was similar, designed for flamenco steps.

Mark Lewisohn
The Beatles Tune In | (Little, Brown Book Group, 2013)

It wasn’t until 1963, when I was eighteen, that I had enough money set aside to splash out on a deeply longed-for pair of leather Chelsea boots from Anello & Davide in Covent Garden. I was proudly wearing these, thinking that I looked rather special, when I stepped into a coffee bar in Muswell Hill, only to find another bloke wearing an identical pair. His name was Ewan Dawson and we bonded over our boots. We became firm friends and fellow adventurers for many years thereafter. 
Rod Stewart
Rod. The Autobiography | (Random House, 2012)




AFTER-FX (FAMILY INHERITANCE AND THE REST)

The only thing that both of our outfits had in common was the handmade Chelsea boots with Cuban heels that my father always wore and then passed down to me once they were a little scuffed but still serviceable . . . until I grew taller than him and my feet got too big. 
Elvis Costello
Unfaithful Music & Disappearing Ink (Blur Rider Press, 2015)


1977 | Stormtroopers' Star Wars
Source: V&A Museum
1/2 Austin Powers

In celluloid, the Chelsea boot found its way into movies as diverse as "Star Wars" and "Austin Powers"; it was also featured in the acclaimed TV series The Avengers. 

On record jackets, both The Beatles and the Stones didn't showcased them. Others did though, like the Vinyl Kings.



Vinyl Kings - A Little Trip
(Vinyl Kings Records, 2002)

Vinyl Kings - Time Machine
(DIY, 2005)


Nashville's Vinyl Kings grew out quickly from the cover-band phase and - being talented songwriters - they were sometime very, very close to the real thing. Also, a Beatle fan can only appreciate their clever tribute to "A Hard Day's Night" done with the album "Time Machine".

Closer to home - and before the Vinyl Kings - punk poet John Cooper Clarke and surf/garage rock band The Barracudas proudly showed their Beatle boots on record covers.



John Cooper Clarke
Me And My Big Mouth (Epic, 1981)
John Cooper Clarke
Zip Style Method (Epic, 1982)
Barracudas
(I Wish It Could Be) 1965 Again (GMG, 1985)
Barracudas
Don't Ever Say It Can't Be So 7" (Munster, 2004)


More recently, Basque Country's Acapulco Gold Diggers displayed a well worn pair of Chelseas on the cover of the 7" EP "F.I.R.E" (2009), while Lie Detectors - also from the Basque Country - provides the perfect ending with the 7""Chelsea Boots" (2015).



Lie Detectors - Chelsea Boots 7"
(Bloody Mary Records, 2015)
Cover designed by former Nuevo Catechismo Catolico Eneko Etxeandia



FOOTNOTES

(1)
On the subject of boots and shoes, Mr. Sparkes Hall is quite au fait: and his pretty little book, by the evidence of research and taste displayed in its pages, is a sufficient guarantee that in his case the patronage of royalty has not been ill bestowed.

He has given us a history of shoes and shoe-making from the time of the Egyptians down to the present day … (that) will assuredly afford an hour's pleasant and instructive reading, in which the practical and the poetical are very judiciously and tastefully blended.

The Westminster Review | Volume 1, 1846

The second edition of "The Book Of Feet" (1847) can be read online at HATHI TRUST.


(2)

A.K.A. THE MOST UNBELIEVABLE FOOTNOTE EVER

They're called Chelsea boots because everyone in New York's Chelsea neighborhood, where nearly everyone is gay, owns a pair, and gay men know shoes, people. Chelsea boots are compact boots with a side gore, which is a stretchy little elastic panel that allows the boot to fit snuglyeven though it doesn't have laces …

… and because they were invented for riding, they add just a little equestrian flair to your wardrobe. Trust me, horse people know clothes. It's never a bad idea to copy them.

Carson Kressley
Off The Cuff. The Essential Style Guide For Men And The Women Who Love Them.
(Dutton Adult, 2004)


(3)

Idiotic footnote no.2 aside, a more suitable explanation of why it's called Chelsea boot:

In the mid-1950s, a group consisting of young artists, film directors, and socialists started frequenting the King’s Road area in West London. This group was named the ‘Chelsea Set’ by the media, and they made the name ‘Chelsea’ synonymous with a new way of living and dressing. This group, which included well-known fashion icons Mary Quant and Jean Shrimpton, started favoring the Paddock boots and soon they began to be considered the ultimate leisure accessory and hence were renamed to Chelsea Boots. 


1986 | Andy Warhol
Beatle Boots White
Source: The Estate of Andy Warhol and the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc., New York

↧

TBAMFW # 19 | BACK TO THE BOOTS

April 10, 2016, 12:20 am
$
0
0
The Hollowbodies - Lame
(Polydor, 1996)

Dave Matthews & Tim Reynolds - The Boots CD EP
(Blenheimvineyards.com, 2013)

Mr. Big - Mr. Big
(Atlantic, 1989)

Joe South - Walkin' Boots
(Mine, 1970)

The Killers - Boots CD Single
(Island, 2010)


WORKING BOOTS
IN ART

SHOES
& MUSIC



Ben Webster - Stormy Weather
(Polydor, 1970)




FOOTNOTES

The title Back To The Boots was stolen from a small label/mail order out of Berlin; from their catalogue we strongly suggest Daisy Chain's "She's A Boxer".

We don't endorse any of the above records save for Joe South and Ben Webster (higher resolution cover required).



Back to The Boots | label & mailorder
Germany

↧

1973 | COLETTE | PARABIAGO, MILAN

April 11, 2016, 10:16 pm
$
0
0
1973 | COLETTE | detail
Parabiago, Milan
Source: Ars Sutoria

1973 | COLETTE
Parabiago, Milan
Source: Ars Sutoria


1973 | COLETTE FOR BIKI
JANUARY | HAUTE COUTURE ROME

COLETTE
I N D E X


1973 | COLETTE
Parabiago, Milan
Source: Ars Sutoria

↧
Viewing all 405 articles
Browse latest View live
Search