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1924 | EDITH CHAUSSEUR | 'AN INNOVATION'

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1924 | Edith, Paris
"Pink - beige kid, trimmed with red kid."


From Vogue Magazine (France), 1924, November issue:
"The constant aim of today's elegant woman is to always create harmony: to achieve a happy outfit, it is not enough for her to wear a new and seductive hat, a dress with a skilful cut and a fitting tone. The smallest accessories of her toilet are meticulously studied and chosen: the scarf matches with the hat, the gloves’ shade accompanies that of the tailleur, the bag, pretty knick-knack of carved leather, delicate tapestry, precious enamels, harmonizes with the dress."


1924 | Edith, Paris
"Varnished and very flexible kid, , trimmed with emerald green."

"As for the shoes, barely ten years ago, the choice was limited to black patent and yellow kid. The current inspiration for a set sought after in every detail requires for each dress the matching shoes.



Now the shoemaker is an artist just like the couturier; like him, he cares for the original and elegant line; like him, he constantly creates models that are real pieces of art: openwork leather shoes, intricate arabesques, pearly satins or studded with rhinestones, dazzling lamés, more precious than the vair slipper of Cinderella ."


1924 | Edith | Paris
"Small squares in all shades."

"Thanks to a selection of models of an infinite variety, remarkably chic and carefully executed, the Maison Edith, 4, rue Tronchet (behind the Madeleine) counts among its customers the most elegant women of Paris.
For the upcoming season, this fashionable designer is to launch an elegant beige or flesh color kid shoe, similar to the stockings currently more fashionable. One of Edith's charming innovations is the original combination of black suede and patent leather."


1924 | Edith, Paris
"Beige kid, topped with black kid."


FROM MESSORE TO EDITH
CHAUSSURES DE HAUT LUXE

1924-25 | L'APRES-MIDI
CHEZ EDITH CHAUSSEUR


1924 | Edith, Paris
"Black box, comfortable for the Bois."


1985 | KEITH HARING | EIGHT SHOES

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1985 - Keith Haring | Detail
"Eight Shoes" | Lithograph (Printed 1986)



“I still really want to design a pair of sneakers. I have all these new painting ideas and sculpture ideas that I can’t wait to start. I made drawings in Switzerland and Monte Carlo. That was great, but not enough. I really want to go back and try to heal myself by painting. I think I could actually do it. ”

Keith Haring - September 1989
From: Keith Haring Journals (Penguin Books, 1996)



1985 - Keith Haring
"Eight Shoes" | Lithograph (Printed 1986)


1932 - 2013
SHOES & ART

1924-25 | L'APRES-MIDI CHEZ EDITH CHAUSSEUR

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1927 | A model by Edith, Paris
Source: Les Modes

"For the sole purpose of being pleasant to its charming customers, the Maison Edith has just inaugurated new and luxurious fitting rooms and a very important range of  the most fine stockings , which will allow the elegant women to buy on the spot chic stockings matching with their shoes." 
[From an advertising by Edith Chaussures, Vogue France, 1924, November]


A reproduction of the new boutique Edith was published in 1925 by Vogue magazine. Here is the drawing, with the exhibition of shoes and stockings:


1925 | Edith | Paris
Chic women's boutique of choice
Source: Vogue France

1925 | Maison Edith | detail
Source Vogue France

1925 | Maison Edith | detail
Source Vogue France


FROM MESSORE TO EDITH
CHAUSSURES DE HAUT LUXE

1924 | EDITH CHAUSSEUR
AN INNOVATION


1925 | Maison Edith | detail
Source Vogue France

1964 | ANDREA PFISTER (1942 - 2018)

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1964 | Andrea Pfister
Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister
Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister
Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister
Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister
Source: AS magazine

ANDREA PFISTER
IN MEMORIAM

ANDREA PFISTER
I N D E X




1964 | Andrea Pfister
Source: AS magazine

{ [ ( U P D A T E S ) ] }

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1955 | Capezio
The Rose Bud sling back


1938 | HERMAN B. DELMAN
PUMPS

1940 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE ARCH-LESS SHOE
OR: PERUGIA V/S LOUIS VUITTON ET AL

1947 | DALLAS | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
NEIMAN-MARCUS FASHION AWARD

1955 | BRUNIS (VIGEVANO)
WITH PIRELLI'S CORIA SOLES

1969 | DU PONT'S CORFAM AS SEEN BY ANDREA PFISTER AND ROGER VIVIER
PLUS A GUEST APPEARANCE FROM FERRAGAMO

1984 - 1991 | RAYMOND PETTIBON
B&W SHOES

COLETTE & LA FLESSIBILE INDEX
PARABIAGO

1974 - 2008 | WILLIAM EGGLESTON'S
(SHOE) GUIDE

CASH ONLY
JOHNNY CASH & HIS BOOTMAKER (PASQUALE DI FABRIZIO)





1949 | Capezio
Capezio Dancing Shoes

1953 | Capezio
Small Illusion Heels

1949 | CAPEZIO | SQUARE TOED GHILLIES AND THONG SANDALS

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1949 | Capezio
Yellow Patent Leather Square Toed Ghillie
Source: Orlando Evening Star - May 23, 1949

Vogue
March 15, 1949 | 50 Cents


Capezio has captured all the poise, artistry and delicacy from the ballet slipper and transferred it to a shoe that offers the layman’s demands from a dancer’s point of view. Graceful thong sandal that adhere to the wearer’s ankle are now making a Miami appearance co-starring with the latest resort achievements of America’s leading dress designers.

Joyce Voelker
Orlando Evening Star - May 23, 1949




1949 | Capezio | detail
Thong Sandals
Source: The Miami News - January 23, 1949

1949 | Capezio | Thong Sandals
Marking: Hermes Grecian Sandal by Capezio
Gift of Capezio Ballet Makers, 1973

The MET's generic "20th century" can now be amended.


1949 | Capezio
Thong Sandals
Source: The Miami News - January 23, 1949


1975 | TAPPING THROUGH MAGIC
JOHN 'DRUMBO' FRENCH & SALVATORE CAPEZIO

1957 - 1958
CAPEZIO FOR WEST SIDE STORY




CAPEZIO FOR WEST SIDE STORY

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CA. 1949 | Capezio | Theatrical Shoes
Photograph: Lisa Larsen
Source: The Red List

FIRST NIGHTER
COLORFUL GANG DRAMA PROVES DISAPPOINTING 
Much of Leonard Bernstein's music is hauntingly beautiful; some of it, as in the case of 'Gee, Officer Krupke”, is charmingly light, and a lot of it has the wail of the Juke box. 
I suppose that my sharp disappointment in "West Side Story” lies within the basic material itself. For all of the art that has gone into the creation of this new musical play, any dramatization of juvenile delinquency is on the grim side and for most of the evening the Winter Garden’s play failed to hold me in its spell. 
"West Side Story" comes to Broadway with a big out-of-town buildup and with an impressive advance sale. It will probably pack the big playhouse for some time, but I have grave doubts as to its chances for sustained popular appeal. 
Ward Morehouse
Long Island Star Journal | September 27, 1957

1958 | Capezio's Jazz Oxford
Source: The Bridgeport Post | May 28, 1958


Lack of the critic’s long-sightedness aside, we just care to point out that Capezio provided the footwear for this soon-to-be legendary play.

Known as the dancer’s “cobbler” since 1887, this season Capezio brings out the “Jazz” Oxford, a direct descendant of the ballet Oxford the male dancers wear in the Broadway musical hit “West Side Story” 
Schenectady GazetteAugust 23, 1958


1958 | Capezio's Jazz Oxford
Source: Rochester NY Democrat Chronicle | May 27, 1958

A Sensational Hit
WEST SIDE STORY
Source: Long Island Journal | November 6, 1957



FOOTNOTES

[1] According to the Vintage Fashion Guild

“Joe Famolare designs and selections also most notably appeared in the original Broadway Production of West Side Story. The “Dance Oxford” created by Joe especially for West Side Story is still in use on stage to this very day.”

That would have been a nice touch to Famolare’s spectacular career, unfortunately they also stated that Famolare was hired by Capezio in 1960, meaning almost three years after West Side Story’s opening.

[2] Also the female dancers were shod in Capezios.


1949 | CAPEZIO
SQUARE TOED GHILLIES AND THONG SANDALS

1975 | TAPPING THROUGH MAGIC
JOHN 'DRUMBO' FRENCH & SALVATORE CAPEZIO



Capezio's Carrol Lawrence (Maria) ballet slippers
Courtesy of Doug Wilson

1949 | FRATTEGIANI | THE KIMO CONCEPT BEFORE THE KIMO/SPAGHETTI SANDAL

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Free From Frostbite
BOOTIES FOR BEAUTIES

For the woman whose toes get too chilly traveling to and from a festive affair, Frattegiani of Rome designs a two-piece evening shoe that is fashionably bare, but equipped with its own toe protecting bootie. Meant for wear on the dance floor, the shoes are fashioned of gold calf and silver brocade. The shining bootie fits neatly inside the dainty high-heeled sandal.

Press And Sun Bulletin (Binghamton, New York)
December 21, 1949


1949 | Edoardo Frattegiani
The Origin Of The Spaghetti/Kimo Sandal
Source: Press And Sun Bulletin (Binghamton, New York) - December 21, 1949


When Ferragamo patented the Spaghetti/Kimo sandal, Frattegiani sued him for plagiarism. We know how it ended, as the Ferragamo company still held the patent at the end of the 80s, but all the other details vanished over time.

However, up until now, the original Frattegiani bootie was never showed and it’s for everyone to see that Frattegiani was right; shame he had a second-rate lawyer.



1951 | Ferragamo's Spaghetti original French ad
The Kimo sock is worn with the golden kidskin "Spaghetti" sandal


1955 | FRATTEGIANI | FLORENCE | PART 2

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Today’s Fashion

Raffia and velvet wide-circle skirts are being sold to Texas women who love the ordinary patio skirts. The Italian imports are made of alternate rows of straw and velvet ribbon, hand-embroidered with flowers or geometric emblems.

Sling straw sandals by Frattegiani are bare on top and cork-heeled on bottom. They make nice compliments to the straw skirts.

The Journal News | June 23, 1955
White Plains, New York


1955 | Frattegiani | Florence
Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles


In all the world, no one creates little flats with the enchanting flair of Frattegiani, internationally famous designer. Everything about them is captivating: warm Mediterranean colours, fine kid leathers, deep hued sailcloth, soft raffia (and wait ‘till you see the linings). So special are they … they travel from Italy to you on only the Queens, Elizabeth and Mary. Come see our Italian darlings.

Joseph Salon Shoes ad
Source: Chicago Tribune, April 1955



1955 | Frattegiani | Florence
Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence
Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles
Source: AS magazine

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence
Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles


1955 | FRATTEGIANI
PART 1

FRATTEGIANI V/S FERRAGAMO
THE TWO TENOR-SHOE DESIGNERS

1949 | FRATTEGIANI
THE KIMO CONCEPT BEFORE THE KIMO SANDAL


1955 | Frattegiani | Florence
Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles

And to round things up we add the Frattegiani sandals from the mighty MET collection: probably not from the same year (no cork heels), but close; the raffia flowers and stem being a recurring motif.


1954 - 1958 | Frattegiani

FRATTEGIANI HEELS

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1955 | Frattegiani
Source: The Philadelphia Inquirer - May 4, 1955

ROME MEMO ON FASHIONS 
Heels are admitted to Roman society - when they bear the mark of Frattegiani at 50, via Sistina. Most exclusive are his famous porcelain heels specially designed by Florentine craftsmen. 
These platforms and spikes in pastel-toned embossed flowers are often matched by three-dimensional porcelain blossoms on the toe. Most sophisticated are the plain gold heels with incrusted star motifs on black ballet pumps. 
Surfaces of other Frattegiani heels are inspired by artists who put on paint with a knife-rough shaggy slices of color that meet and combine in abstract shapes.
The same technique in gold resembles crumpled lame set with semi-precious stones in every fold. 
By Monique
The Philadelphia Enquirer
November 25, 1954


1956 | Frattegiani | Florence
Mosaic Heels
Photograph: JSS/Keystone 

ORIGINAL CAPTION:
ARTISTIC SHOE HEELS MADE OF MOSAIC ...
NEW STYLES FROM ITALY
 
Sep. 09, 1956 ­ Artistic Show heels made Mosaic new styles from Italy.. Frattegiani the famous Florentine shoe stylist­is the creator of these unique shoe heels which are made of colourful mosaic­in true Italian Style.


1955 | FRATTEGIANI
PART 1

FRATTEGIANI V/S FERRAGAMO
THE TWO TENOR-SHOE DESIGNERS

1949 | FRATTEGIANI
THE KIMO CONCEPT BEFORE THE KIMO SANDAL 

1955 | FRATTEGIANI AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

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LATEST FROM ROME

ROME - Even Italians who prefer their women in skirts have decided that slacks are here to stay. Bowing to the decision, Shoemaker Frattegiani has launched a special sports shoe with a one-piece sole coming up each side in moccasin style. The tops are made in any pastel shade to match - or in contrast with - your trouser turnups.

Chicago Tribune
April 15, 1955 


1955 | Frattegiani | Florence

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence


1955 | FRATTEGIANI
PART 1

FRATTEGIANI V/S FERRAGAMO
THE TWO TENOR-SHOE DESIGNERS

1949 | FRATTEGIANI
THE KIMO CONCEPT BEFORE THE KIMO SANDAL



SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT

Frattegiani MET credits

1957 | ANDRE PERUGIA: CINDERELLA? NEVER AGAIN

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SPECIAL TECHNIQUES REQUIRED FOR “CINDERELLA” PRODUCTION

An ingenious costume design for Cinderella Julie Andrews will allow her make split-second changes from her servant clothes into her ball gown and back again ...

…the glass slipper has finally been created by Vinylite and Lucite by Parisian designer (André) Perugia of I. Miller.

Says director Nelson: “ The viewers may not realise it but they're forcing us to create new technical patterns and solve problems that ordinarily would be evaded.”

Clinton C. Byers | The Geneva Times (Geneva, NY)
March 23, 1957



March 31, 1957 | ORIGINAL CAPTION:
After the show Julie Andrews drinks toast to the rest of the cast from 
her (André Perugia) glass slipper.
Source: LIFE magazine

So, the most famous glass slipper in the history of glass slippers was made by André Perugia and nobody knew about it. Well, somebody knew, but it must have slipped through the cracks of history and flawed footwear books.

Say, if it were made by someone like Ferragamo, it would have been on exhibit 24 hours a day at Palazzo Spini Feroni with a number of books to back it up the hype. You know, the usual mktg plan.

Instead, we’re left with a Perugia shoe seen by 100 million television viewers (some of them in color) and we don’t even know if the models survived the TV program and kept in a vault somewhere. At least we know how the manufacturing process was made.



1957 | André Perugia | Glass slipper | still frame
Source: You Tube


March 22 - 1957

FRAGILE GLASS SLIPPER TESTS SHOEMAKER AS MUCH AS CINDERELLA.


The all-important glass slipper which Julie Andrews will wear as Rodgers and Hammerstein’s “Cinderella” when CBS Television presents the lavish, hour-and-one-half color musical, Sunday, March 31, is probably the most difficult and costly footwear assignment in television annals.

Parisian designer Perugia of I. Miller arrived in Mew York in mid February to begin work on the size 7 1/2B “glass” shoe, and the results, after four weeks of experiment and exasperating labor, are three pairs of slippers costing $ 300 per pair.



1957 | Jon Cypher as Prince Christopher
Studio photo
Source: Jon Cypher

It was decided that three pairs would be required because one pair must fit Julie Andrews; one must be much smaller than stepsisters Kaye Ballard and Alice Ghostley could possibly wear (they really wear the same size as Julie), and a third pair for Julie is made with leather soles so that she can dance in them (The one hold by Jon Cypher in the picture above).

The slipper which the television audience will see in close-up is made of Vinylite with a Lucite sole and heel, and has resulted in frayed nerves for the craftsmen. In fact, more than six slippers have broken just as they were finished, due to the fragility of the soles.



1957 | Jon Cypher as Prince Christopher | Cinderella
Screencap
Source: Jon Cypher


Perugia, who is not only the world’s most famous shoe designer but also one of the few who can make an entire shoe himself, had to use a special trick to solve the problem of holding the uppers to the soles. Glue will not to the job with such substances as Lucite and Vinylite. After he had made the uppers himself on wooden lasts of Julie’s feet, he created a special rim, which will be invisible, to which the soles can be securely attached.

It is these soles that have caused the hot tempers on the part of the workmen. Once Perugia had finished the uppers, it took two men two days to complete the first soles and heels. The Lucite had to be shaped while hot, then had to be ground to a special thinness and finally polished. It was in the grinding that several soles were broken. In fact, when the first pair was finished the workmen said “Never again!” And had to be persuaded to tackle the other pairs.



1957 | Jon Cypher holding a $ 300 André Perugia glass slipper
Screencap
Source: Jon Cypher


The actual design of Cinderella’s “glass” slipper is very simple. The transparent shoes have 2 1/2-inch heels and a starburst spray of jewels on each vamp.

Needless to say the finished slippers are being handled like newborn babes and are being guarded like royalty from until the “Cinderella” program.

The Arizona Daily Star
Section C - Page Five | March 22, 1957



Julie Andrews as seen in LIFE - April 15, 1957
Source: LIFE magazine


ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER DE LUXE
D O S S I E R




1957 | André Perugia | Glass slipper | still frame
Source: You Tube

1949 | ANDRE PERUGIA | COURT SHOES OF CLEAR NYLON

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COURT SHOES OF CLEAR NYLON 
PARIS. - Perugia, one of the most famous shoe designers in France has launched a court shoe in nylon, of which only the slim heel and sole are visible.
The uppers are transparent, and worn with sheer nylon stocking. The effect is striking and beautiful. 
Eunice Airey
SUN (Sidney - August 17, 1949)

1950 | Dorian Leigh | detail
Photograph: Gjon Mili
Source: Google Art Project

The look on supermodel Dorian Leigh reads like: “Where’s my shoe?”. Which is precisely our question too: where is this Perugia stocking shoe?

We will find it eventually, it’s only a matter of time. Meanwhile you can look at the next best thing made one year later by Beth Levine and universally known as “Gigi Stocking Shoe” as seen December 18, 1950 in LIFE magazine. It was showcased with a full page within the feature “Lingerie Theatrics”.


1950 | Gigi Stocking Shoe | Beth & Herbert Levine | detail
Photograph: Gjon Mili
Source: Google Art Project


According to Helene Verin - author of “Beth Levine Shoes” - Gigi was created in early 1950: “… a stoking was inserted between two layers of sole and drawn up over the foot and leg”.

LIFE called it Can-Can Stockings (December 18, 1950) and added the following caption:

“Black nylon net opera-length hose, like those traditionally worn by Moulin Rouge dancers, now come permanently attached to high-heeled satin mules (Herbert Levine, $30). They are sexy to look at but hard to launder.”


Sexy, but hard to launder? Only LIFE.


ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER DE LUXE
D O S S I E R



1950 | Dorian Leigh wearing Gigi stocking Shoes
Photograph: Gjon Mili
Source: LIFE magazine - December 18, 1950


FOOTNOTES
[SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT]


While our focus is strictly on Perugia, we cannot help but notice that a pair of the Gigi Stocking Shoe is kept at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and given the date 1953.




SHOE DESIGNING TODAY

It's of no importance whatsoever but the model pictured here below was called by someone "a statement shoe"; others went for "avantgardist as never seen before". Loss of memory or worse?


S/S 2018 - Dior
What would you do? Change model or shoe-size?

1927 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE MODEL GOCASSE FOR I.MILLER & ALPINA | FEAT. JOSEPHINE BAKER

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1927 | André Perugia for I.Miller | detail
The model Gocasse
Source: Hartford Courant | October 12, 1927


PARIS speaks in very line of this custom-made slipper - in its graceful upward, sweeping curves, exquisite modeling and incomparable perfection of finish … More delightful still, this Perugia original is shown by us at less half its cost in Paris!

I. Miller advertisement
Source: Hartford Courant | October 12, 1927


1927 | All shoes & handbags by André Perugia
Left-hand corner: Gocasse & matching handbag | Drawing by Charles Martin
Source: Femina magazine


Monsieur Perugia brought with him a marvellous collections of his own designs, some worth $100 a pair, others more practical and more within the purse limits of the average woman, but all typical of what is going to be worn for fall and winter.

… in the lower left-hand corner you will find a shoe of bronze kidskin with an interesting saddle effect and strap of gold and silver kid. A hand bag to match is shown with this shoe.

Lucy Claire
The Daily Times | July 21, 1927



1928 | Andrè Perugia for Alpina - Lézard Perlé (Beaded Lizard)
The model Gocasse & matching handbag
Twice the I. Miller price

VFF (Very Famous Feet)
Andrè Perugia | The model Gocasse | detail
Source: Publifoto

Publifoto's picture says 1929 - 1930, while another photograph place Josephine Baker, and manager/lover Pepito (Giuseppe Abatino) alongside Le Corbusier on the dock of the cruiser Giulio Cesare en route to San Paulo, Brazil via Montevideo - November 1929

Anyway, Baker's choice of Perugias was impeccable, but we wonder: where's the matching handbag?.



November 1929 | Josephine Baker shod in Perugia's Gocasse
On board of the cruiser Giulio Cesare
Source: Publifoto

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER DE LUXE


FOOTNOTE

It seems that the only surviving Gocasse model is kept well hidden at Romans’ Musée International de la Chaussure, France.


Andrè Perugia's Gocasse highlighted
The treasure room at Romans’ Musée International de la Chaussure
Source: Gordana Dimitrijevic

{ [ ( U P D A T E S ) ] }

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1926 | ANDRE' PERUGIA FOR I.MILLER
THE EUCLID GEOMETRIC PUMPS

MASKS BY ANDRE' PERUGIA
THE ECHO IN PARABIAGO, MILAN AND ELSEWHERE

1956 | ANDRE PERUGIA
THE CIRCLET BOOT FOR I.MILLER

1957 | ANDRE PERUGIA'S PARADOX FOR I.MILLER
THE OPEN/CLOSED LOOK

MARTIN FRIEDMANN, JR VS MANOLO BLAHNIK
THE CANTILEVER HEEL | PART 2

1952 | STAERCK | PARIS
THE ’S’ METAL HEEL

1955 | ROGER VIVIER FOR DIOR/DELMAN
THE RHINESTONE BALL HEEL

CUTTING EDGE DESIGN
THE JAGGED SOLE [A.K.A. RIPPLE SOLE]

1938 | LEANDRE G. RENALDO & SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
THE SPLIT-SOLE

1938 | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
DOESN'T BRING HAPPINESS


1927 | André Perugia models | detail
Source: Le Figaro

1928 | Enzel | designed by André Perugia
Source: Berliner Tageblatt | December 18, 1928


1943 | PICASSO’S SLIPPERS

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Picasso’s Slippers
Photograph: Brassaï
Source: Brassaï - Conversations With Picasso (The University Of Chicago Press, 1999)

Monday 6 December 1943 
Near the easel, an old armchair is staggering under a pile of papers with a portrait on top, one of the many preparatory portraits for “Man With Sheep”. Picasso's slippers are set at the foot of the armchair. The head, armchair, and slippers form a kind of personage, holding in his arms the piles of books and magazines. I move the barely visible slippers slightly, and prepare to take the photo of my funny little man, when Picasso comes in. He glances at what I am doing. 
PICASSO:
It'll be an amusing photo, but it won't be a "document." Do you know why? Because you moved my slippers. I never place them that way. It's your arrangement, not mine. The way an artist arranges the objects around him is as revealing as his artworks. I like your photos precisely because they are truthful.

Brassaï
From: Conversations With Picasso (The University Of Chicago Press, 1999)


Picasso’s Slippers
Photograph: Brassaï
Source: Brassaï - Conversations With Picasso (The University Of Chicago Press, 1999)

Brassaï (born Gyula Halasz) was a photographer, journalist, and author of photographic monographs and literary criticism, including Letters to My Parents, published by the University of Chicago Press.


SHOES & ART
1832 - 2013

HAPPY EASTER, ONE AND ALL!

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1961 | Herbert Levine
... bursting with blooming color!

INTRODUCING BETH & HERBERT LEVINE | 1949 - 1975 | PT. 1/2

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1962 | Herbert Levine | The model NOVEL
Source: Desert Sun | September 7, 1962

The great profile of the Herbert Levine shoe, urbane as it is, comes from the designing genius of a farmer’s daughter. This erstwhile milk maid is named BETH LEVINE and she is the artistic half of the team of Levine and Levine who personally watch over the birth of 5,000 pair of shoes a week. 
Beth met and married Herbert Levine during World War II while she was a member of the American Red Cross and planned and directed entertainment for servicemen. After the war, with the memory of having spent several years on her feet dancing and dashing from place to place, and with the full realization of the persuasive powers of Mr. Levine, she agreed that shoes were certainly a most important item and that Herbert Levine was, indeed, just the one to promote them. 
So, in 1948 Beth and Herbert founded Herbert Levine Inc. with the arrangement that he was to handle the selling and business details and she was to be responsible for the designing of the shoes. 


November 1957 | Herbert Levine
Harper's Bazaar

From the outset the Levine set their goals high. Theirs were to be shoes which literally stood for elegance, fashion and new ideas. To achieve a new concept of shoe fashion the Levines will go almost to the ends of the earth. To this day Beth Levine, who instigated the trend to the extremely slender heel, has designed over 100,000 pair of shoes which have been made in the United States, airmailed to France and there fitted with an unusually slender, tapered heel [the famous Jordan Heel(2)] and then re-airmailed back to this country as a complete shoe. 
Mrs. Levine is understandably proud of her shoe designs because of the unusual use of fabric, leather and color combinations for which the Levine shoe has come to be famous. During yearly travels throughout the world the Levine personally select, for their shoes, brocades from India, silks from Siam, velvets and silks from France and tie silks from Italy. 
Although Beth Levine has found it exciting creating such designs as the “stocking shoe”, an innovation in shoe designs which strikingly glamorizes the legs of many of the world’s most famous entertainers including the very beautiful legs of Marlene Dietrich who owns several pair, she believes that the most satisfying thing about her designing work so far has been the creation of beautiful, radically new silhouettes which place as much emphasis upon fit and quality of workmanship as they do on fashion. 


1954 | Beth Levine ...
... is that something extra

In private life, Beth Levine keeps as busy a schedule as she does during “office hours”. The Levines live in Lower Manhattan in a spacious terraced apartment. On the home front Mrs. Levine is the attentive mother of a lively three year old daughter. It is especially for little Anna Sam Levine that the designing-half and the business-half of Herbert Levine Inc. spend their weekends on a Long Island farm. But, every Monday morning, it’s back to the city and the hum of business activity for this enterprising pair of talented young shoemakers. 
Source: Reno Evening Gazette (Reno, Nevada)


The above text is taken from a J. Magnin ad from September 27, 1956, and while it serves as a proper introduction, it’s not completely accurate. For instance, Herbert Levine married Beth Katz on November 1946 after they had been an item for four months. Herbert was Sales & Advertising manager at the shoe manufacturer Andrew Geller and Beth showed up for a job interview. (1)

Two years later, both unhappy of what they were doing they decided to go independent with the help of Herb’s friend Sidney Kornblum. They established Herbert Levine, Inc. on January 1949 (not 1948). The rest of the advertisement is the usual marketing fluff but at least is faultless when it comes to Beth Levine’s way of doing shoes. Their combined crafts led them to winning the Neiman-Marcus Award in 1954.



17th Annual Neiman-Marcus Award
Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: Sweetwater Reporter (Sweetwater, Texas)


DAIRYMAN’S DAUGHTER TO RECEIVE COVETED NEIMAN-MARCUS “OSCAR” AT FASHION SHOW 
Dallas, Aug. 21 - UP - A dairyman’s daughter and her Phi Beta Kappa husband will reach out for muchly-coveted Neiman-Marcus fashion “Oscars” when the Texas specialty store fills its lush pink and grey halls at its 17th annual fashion exposition. The accolades will go to Beth and Herbert Levine for their part in glamorising the world’s most famous feet.

…The young Levine’s are the operators of Herbert Levine, Inc., the sixth largest operation of the shoe industry and now 10 times its original size. And this year the firm will attain a capacity of 5,000 shoes a week. Young Beth and her size 4-B feet took leave of the family’s dairy farm in Holstville, Long Island, to become a stenographer and a shoe model for Palter Deliso. Subsequently she was employed at other leading quality shoe factories and given a chance to combine her styling and designing talents.

… the use of gold cloth and brocades from India, silks from Siam, velvets from Lyon, the silks from Como, cottons from England and dress silks from Paris has earned the Levine’s a reputation for fresh and trend-making fashions in exquisite footwear. But they feel their most vital work has been in radical new shoe silhouettes which the industry had therefore felt could not be made to fit.

Beth and Herb made shoe history with their importation of a complete wooden heel from Paris - the famous Jordan Heel. (2) And the assembly of a complete resort collection of shoes set another “first” for the famous couple. 
Sweetwater Reporter (Sweetwater, Tex.)
Vol. 57, No. 197 - August 22, 1954


1958 | Herbert Levine
Tailwind
Source: Star Tribune Sun | May 4, 1958

On our most recent visit to New York City we were keenly disappointed not to see Herbert and Beth - but true to form, they were in Europe discovering new leathers and the like. The Levines have always since their partnership, both personal and professional, been interested in new leather developments, new tanning methods, new textiles and other materials for shoe manufacture, They're also highly sensitive to general fashion trends which indicate changes in shoes. Quite in addition to fabric and leather and general styling, they recognize endless heel interest. 
Louise Wilson
Courier Journal (July 28, 1967)



INTRODUCING BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
PART 2/2


NOTES & ERRATA

(1) 
Beth Levine Shoes by Helene Verin (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2009)

(2)
CHARLES JORDAN, Parisian bottier - not to be confused with Charles Jourdan, founder of the brand of the same name.

If you were mislead - like us - by Caroline Cox’s “Vintage Shoes” you might be aware that Beth Levine never worked for I.Miller nor became their lead designer.



1958 | Beth & Herbert Levine
At Joseph Salon, Long Beach

INTRODUCING BETH & HERBERT LEVINE | 1949 - 1975 | PT. 2/2

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1960 | Herbert Levine Days!
Source: The Wisconsin Jewish Chronicle

INTRODUCING BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

Beth Levine never stopped designing smart and elegant shoes but her brand soon became known for introducing the boot into elegant outfits. Eventually, her boot designs led Herbert Levine, Inc. to winning their first Coty Award in 1967 (1).

Everybody thought it was a big joke when Beth Levine designed a pair of white boots and wore them in 1953 when she made a whole collection of them. It was only a few years later that Courreges brought out his white boots in Paris, and you know the rest of the story.

Boots have been so big that it was hard to believe the fashion can last another year. The husband and wife team of Beth and Herbert Levine know the right answer, though. What else can women wear when winter is cold and skirts are still short? Almost one third of their production this fall will be boots.

Eugenia Sheppard
Corpus Christi Caller Times | August 20, 1967


1967 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The Glitter Boot
Source: The Herald Statesman | Yonkers NY November 20, 1967


This is how Beth Levine explains the boot appeal:
The boot is interesting, not because of the fashion, but because of the feeling. The first time I did a high-heeled leather boot, I had this beautiful leather I could not stand to cut, so I made it into a seamless boot. It was comfortable, even though you had to pull the boot on. The last boots I made had the lightness of weight and the comfort of a nylon stocking. I believe that the boot in some form will always be in style because it is comfortable and a bad leg can look good in it.

Beth Levine | June 1978
Footwear Technology Symposium | Gaithersburg, Maryland
For the record, the Levines received another Coty Award (1973) - two years before they closed doors - the only shoemakers to be awarded twice.



September 1970 | Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office
Beth's Boutique - Beth's Bootery


The boot business was so successful that Beth and Herbert created four new labels at the end of 1969: Beth BooteryBeth Boutique, Lafitte and Forann, named after their daughter Ann (2); however the last two labels remain obscure as no shoes nor info seem to be available.

Tony The Shoemaker - named after Tony Acuti, production manager at Herbert Levine, Inc. was the first off-shot brand active since the late 1964. (3)



1965 | Tony The Shoemaker
Source: Buffalo Courier Express | May 2, 1965

IN BETH'S opinion, "Never before have boots been such an integral part of the entire costume as for this midi conscious season."One of originals, the laced boot, is getting enormous attention from fashion savants."Lacings reflect a definite nostalgia and also fit perfectly into the concept of softened clothes," Beth said. "It takes a little longer to dress, perhaps, but it is, in itself, an enjoyment of dressing." 
The Daily Press
Utica, NY | September 14, 1970
The Levines joined forces with all the major American designers of their time “to do shoes and boots for their collections. They are keenly aware that shoes come first - that without the right shoe a beautiful design effort can end in disaster. The designers worked with the Levine’s months ahead of their openings to assure the right shoe to complete their looks. They concur with Beth on the importance of working from the ground up.

The Levine’s did shoes for the collections of Geffrey Beene, Seymour Fox, George Halley, Victor Joris, Kasper for Joan Leslie, Adele Simpson, Richmond Tarn, Jacques Tiffeau, Pauline Trigére, b.H. Wragge and the furriers Maximilian and Revillon.” (4) 

Add to the list Oscar De La Renta, Emilio Pucci, Halston, Bill Glass … Not that it is important, but feel free to find yourself a celebrity list of Herbert Levine enthusiasts as it is widely available everywhere.


1974 | Herbert Levine
Vinylite Pump
Source: The Post Crescent | February 7, 1974

By 1975, the exorbitant price of making shoes in the United States along with the budding popularity of sneakers, led Herbert Levine, Inc. to stop production. Herb had had enough: he took care of his employees’ pensions and severance, and then he proceeded to shut the doors forever. 
Although the Levines had had several offers to licence their name, they felt they would lose control of the quality, which was, to them, unthinkable. Herb felt that no licensing arrangement had ever succeeded and pointed to Schiaparelli as an example: “It was just royalties for a name.” 
Helene Verin,
Beth Levine Shoes (Steward, Tabori & Chang, 2009)

Funny how the Schiaparelli reference is so contemporary.



Filed November 26, 1976 | Granted December 27, 1977
Betherb, Inc. Patent of a two-portion boot


As soon as they closed production Beth and Herbert founded Betherb, Inc. and kept operating within the industry as consultants; an article from August 1976 - when their designs were showcased at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts - placed them working with producers of shoemaking machinery. Betherb, Inc. also had a few patents under their belt.

Herbert Levine died of lung cancer in 1991, while Beth passed away in 2006, aged 91, also of lung cancer. She was still involved in collaborations with well known designers.

The brand Herbert Levine was briefly resurrected in 2008 by Dennis and Lynne Comeau (5), another husband & wife team, but it didn’t last and the label is now owned by an investment group whose Facebook page is dormant since May 2012.



INTRODUCING BETH & HERBERT LEVINE




NOTES

(1)
The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty, Inc. to promote and celebrate American fashion. The City awards were discontinued in 1985.

(2)
Helene Verin | Beth Levine Shoes (Steward, Tabori & Chang, 2009)

(3)
Helene Verin attributed the birth of Tony The Shoemaker at the end of 1969, but advertisements of the brand can be seen starting from October 1964.

(4)
The Daily Press | Utica, NY - September 14, 1970

(5)
Dennis Comeau is a shoe designer who practised under the late Bandolino designer Enzo Angiolini. Along with his wife Lynne, he gave new life to historical brand Bernardo. Bought and sold in a few years, they tried the same with Herbert Levine with a less successful outcome. Side note: Dennis Comeau was actively involved at the beginning of the highly influential New York punk scene although details are fuzzy.




1970 | Beth & Herbert Levine For Tony The Shoemaker
The Challis Boot
Source: The San Bernardino County Sun | December 7, 1970

1949 - 1950 | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE | FEMME FATALE & MERRY GALA

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No survivors from the 1949/1950 time frame, or so it seems, but Helene Verin describes the very first collection:

“The Levine’s first collection, in February of 1949, consisted of one shoe, named “Femme Fatale”, which had a thin wrap-around ankle strap and a V-Cut closed toe vamp on a single sole. They showed it in a myriad of bright colours (which were considered vulgar at the time) and fabrications: satin with coloured stones, suede with grosgrain ribbons, kidskin with pearls and so on.” 
Helene Verin
Beth Levine Shoes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2009)

And here it comes the very first advertisement we could find: December of the same year, and the Verin's shoe description fits.


1949 | Herbert Levine
Festive footnote - jet-flecked suedes
Source: The Salt Lake City Tribune | December 4, 1949

Given the good response of their debut, a few months later they didn’t stray to much with the second collection named “ Merry Gala”:

“For a fresh, smart, spring-feel afoot! They can’t resist the opulence of Herbert Levine’s “Merry Gala” collection… blonde, honey-mellow calf, emblazoned with minute, gold railheads. Hand lasted and masterfully designed, these are shoes you’ll wear, with distinction ’til after midnight!” 
Makoff advertisement
February 9, 1950

1950 | Herbert Levine
Merry Gala collection
Source: Salt Lake City Telegram | February 9, 1950

1950 | Herbert Levine
... more ankle straps
Source: The Corpus Christi Caller Times | November 19, 1950


INTRODUCING
BETH & HERBERT LEVINE



1950 | Herbert Levine
The Velvet Touch
Source: The Wisconsin Jewish Chronicle | August 11, 1950

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