Quantcast
Channel: TheHistorialist
Viewing all 405 articles
Browse latest View live

1951 | HERBERT LEVINE | 'ACED LACED' ANKLE STRAP

$
0
0


Lacy and beautiful - our petite feminine ANKLE STRAP SANDALS for spring and summer - by one of America’s foremost designers - Herbert Levine. 

Fine NYLON LACE to enhance your prettiest costume - formal or informal - it’s the lacy look. 

Nylon lace and kidskin in pink or nude. Nylon lace and suede in navy or black. 

L.Strauss & Co. advertisement 
Source: The Indianapolis Star | April 12, 1951



1951 Beth & Herbert Levine
The “Aced Laced” ankle strap
Source: The Salt Lake Tribune | March 29, 1951

1951 Beth & Herbert Levine
The “Aced Laced” ankle strap


INTRODUCING
BETH & HERBERT LEVINE


1951 Beth & Herbert Levine
The “Aced Laced” ankle strap | detail
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum/The Salt Lake Tribune | March 29, 1951


1958 | STEVEN ARPAD FOR HERBERT LEVINE

$
0
0
THOUSANDS OF RHINESTONES lend brillance to this pair of $ 200 slippers, that are undoubtedly the prettiest shoes to ever waltz through an evening. Slippers like these in such unheard off colours as bright as orange, pale yellow and, of course, clear rhinestones, may be found at Ted land’s. Inspired by the Cinderella legend, the shoes were created by Herbert Levine. 
Desert Sun
November 23, 1969

1959 | Herbert Levine
3000 thousands rhinestones by Steven Arpad
Source: Desert Sun | November 23, 1959

HERBERT LEVINE hand-set his Cinderella pumps with three thousand glittering rhinestones … $ 200 a pair
Star Tribune (Minneapolis)
September 11, 1958


1958 | Herbert Levine
For a selected few: $ 200 a pair
Source: Star Tribune | September 11, 1958

In 1963, Beth contacted Steven Arpad, who did the beading and rhinestone work for Balenciaga in Paris. Together they developed a technique for gluing stones to shoes that enabled Beth to create the first fully jewelled shoe, the “Dorothy” pump. When Beth wore a pair of prototypes aboard ship en route to Paris, buyers saw them and they became a sensation before she even reached home. They sold for $200, an exorbitant price at the time, and retailers couldn’t believe that women were actually buying them. 
Helene Verin
Beth Levine Shoes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang - 2009)


The Arpad technique is called pavee (and it is described here), while the name “Dorothy” might be only a reference to The Wizard of Oz as no names can be found in the advertisements.

The year however is one of the few mistakes in an otherwise solid and well researched book: it’s 1958, as seen in the ad, not 1963; also, in another part of the book, Helene Verin describes the 1958’s “Sea Mist” model (photo here below) as being created with the help of Steven Arpad. So, probably just a typo or maybe a collaboration that lasted a few years.


1958 | Beth & Herbert Levine | The model "Sea Mist"
Source: Beth Levine Shoes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang - 2009)

1958 | Beth & Herbert Levine | D'Orsay version of the model "Sea Mist"
Source: Shoe Icons


What we do know is this: the first known Arpad-Levine joint effort was a slingback with gilded heels back in 1956; the year before, the model “Ole” (upcoming) sported a rhinestone encrusted heel. The rhinestone decorations were a recurring Herbert Levine theme from 1955 to 1959. Could Arpad being involved in all of them? Probably, although we don’t have enough details to back this theory. 

Maybe one day.


1956 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Slingback with Steven Arpad gilded heels
Photograph: Ernst Beadle | Source: Harper's Bazaar/devocanada


INTRODUCING 
BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

JEWELLED



SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT

The “three thousand rhinestones pump” is a rare beast: the only museum known to have it is of course The Metropolitan Museum of Art which owns three (3!!) pairs:

- PALE YELLOW:  donated by Beth and Herbert Levine DATED 1955

- GOLD: donated by Dolores Crevolin Gray  DATED CIRCA 1958

- CLEAR RHINESTONES: donated by Roberta Matthews Bernstein DATED 1950’S


1958 | The three 3,000 thousand rhinestones pairs
At The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Source: MET

1957 | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE: A ROSY VIEW WITH ‘ANEMONE’ AND ‘ETCETERA’

$
0
0
1957 | Herbert Levine
The models "Anemone" (center) and "Etcetera" (right)
At Winkelman’s | Detroit
Source: Detroit Free Press | December 29, 1957

EXOTIC BLOOMS BY HERBERT LEVINE 
Light as a feather and colourful as a country garden …soft suede shoes made to dance through the season and on into sunny climes. (The model “Anemone”): blazing pink petunia. 
Star Tribune
December 1, 1957

For unknown reasons, the model “Anemone” was referred in a March 1958 ad as “Pink-a-dink-a-do”. Same price though.


1957 | Herbert Levine
The Model “Anemone” at Shoe Icons
Source: Shoe Icons

Above:  “Anemone” bursts into bloom on this graceful pump! $ 36.95 
Below:  “Etcetera”  -  marvellous spring-o-later pump with a triangular pin for accent. $ 27.95 
Detroit Free Press
December 29, 1957


1957 | Herbert Levine | detail
The model "Etcetera" 
Source: Detroit Free Press | December 29, 1957

1957 | Herbert Levine
The model “Etcetera”
Source: Etsy


INTRODUCING
BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
PART 1 | PART 2



SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT
The model “Anemone” is part of the ever growing Shoe Icons collection; it can also be seen at The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Dated 1959), gift of "Beth Levine Shoes"’s author Helene Verin.

We found the model “Etcetera” in the Etsy warehouse priced $ 146.86.


1957 | Herbert Levine
The model “Anemone” at the MET

1957 | Herbert Levine
“Anemone” shoebox at the MET


"Thumbnail drawings illustrating and naming the shoes were made by Beth's sister Ruthie Ballin, and were affixed to the outside of the shoebox for easy identification of its content." 
Helene Verin
Beth Levine Shoes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2009)

1964 | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE | THE ROLL HEEL

$
0
0

Of course!
1964 | Beth & Herbert Levine | On A Roll
Source: The Miami News | September 28, 1964


Unfashionably called SAUSAGE HEEL, it was actually named “On A Roll”, one of the many clever designs concocted by Beth Levine. The heel is made of kidskin rolled into a tight spiral while the vamp was available in leather or velveteen fabrics as seen in these - rarely - noticed pictures in LIFE magazine.



1964 | Herbert Levine for Tiffeau | detail
The zebra-patterned Roll Heel
Source: LIFE magazine | October 2, 1964

1964 | Herbert Levine for Tiffeau
The zebra-patterned Roll Heel
Source: LIFE magazine | October 2, 1964


INTRODUCING
BETH & HERBERT LEVINE


HEELSTORY



SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT

The Metropolitan Museum of Art owns two pairs of Levine’s “On A Roll” (the first dated circa 1962, the second 1962), while the Bata Shoe Museum owns one (dated 1950’s).


1964 | Beth & Herbert Levine | On A Roll
At the museums: Metropolitan (L & C), Bata (R)

THERE'S ALWAYS A SICILIAN SHOEMAKER, SEZ DIZZIE

$
0
0
1936 | Barone’s Shoe Repairing | Madison Shoe Co. | Lester Pincus Shoe Corp.
Manhattan: Duane Street - West Broadway

LILIAN TERRY: 
“… But tell me, how come you played a Sicilian instrument (1) while living in the Deep South? Have you ever lived near an Italian community?” 
DIZZY GILLESPIE: 
“Yes, but not as a kid. About fifteen years ago we lived in Corona, in New York State, where also Louis Armstrong used to live. I remember this little Italian shoemaker, on my street, with whom I had become friends. 
Every time I came home from my tours I would go look him up, sooner or later, and have a talk. Yeah, he hadn't the slightest idea of who I was. To him I was just a neighbor with whom to share a bottle of wine, homemade by him. And he would fix my shoes with his magic hands. One day I tell him I'm going to Europe and what would he like me to bring him back? ‘A Borsalino hat!


Borsalino
Advertisement designed by Max Huber
Source: Italian Ways

When I got back to the States I gave it to him, but I would not take his money; we were just good friends. Anyway, one day I come home from a tour and find his shop is closed. So I ask his neighbor at the candy store: ‘Where's Frank?’” 
“‘He has a bad heart, so he's shut his shop and gone to live with his daughter in the Bronx. Here's her phone number.’ 
So I call her: ‘Is Frank there, please?’” 
“Yes, can I ask who is calling?” 
“Dizzy Gillespie.”


1948 | Dizzie Gillespie
Source: LIFE magazine October 11, 1948

“She drops the receiver, amazed, and I hear her asking her father, ‘What? You know Dizzy Gillespie?’ 
He comes to the phone: ‘Who's this? Dizzy who?’ I explain to him who I am and in the end he says, ‘Ah, sure! Gillespie, my next door neighbor…. So you are…YOU?’ 
How we laughed! He'd never had any idea of who I was; we were simply good neighbors. Great old man. He was Sicilian.”

Lillian Terry
From: “Dizzy, Duke, Brother Ray, and Friends.” - (University Of Illinois Press, 2017)


(1)

"Sicily’s where I got my collection of ‘Jew's harps.’ Do you know I used to play it as a kid? But when I listened to those Sicilian harps…wow! Boy, they were perfection, not like the American ones. So I got myself a whole box in Palermo, but now I have only four left. I've got to return to Sicily to get another box.”

The proper name in Italy is not Jew's harp but Marranzano.”

Dizzy Gillespie
From: “Dizzy, Duke, Brother Ray, and Friends.” - (University Of Illinois Press, 2017)



Marranzano AKA Jew's Harp

1962 | THE KABUKI COLLECTION BY BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

$
0
0
Also very special are Beth and Herbert Levine's Kabuki slippers, at The Blum Store ($22.95), made in lush velvets, mounted on unique gold rocker bases, derived from authentic Kabuki dancers' shoes. 

The Philadelphia Enquirer
November 28, 1962


1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The Kabuki line at Joseph Magnin
Source: Reno Gazette Journal | January 24, 1963


The four (?) models of the Kabuki collection were filed for patent by Beth Levine between August 16 and December 6, 1962 and before that, the name KABUKI was filed for trademark August 10, 1962.




#1


1962 | Beth & Herbert Levine | Kabuki #1
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum


Not a perfect match, but close: the sole isn't perfectly flat like the patent - or the ad above.



1962 | Beth Levine | Kabuki #1
Filed Aug. 16, 1962 | Granted Jan.1, 1963
Source: Google Patents


#2

No surviving models it seems, although we may be wrong. Let's hope so.

1962 | Beth Levine | Kabuki #2
Filed Aug. 28, 1962 | Granted Jan.8, 1963
Source: Google Patents




#3

Again, no surviving models.

1962 | Beth Levine | Kabuki #3
Filed Aug. 28, 1962 | Granted Jan.8, 1963
Source: Google Patents



#4


1962 | Beth & Herbert Levine | Kabuki #4
Source: MAAS (Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences)
1962 | Beth Levine | Kabuki #4
Filed Dec. 6, 1962 | Granted June 25, 1963
Source: Google Patents



BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X





SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT

Shoe Icons (The Russian Virtual Shoe Museum) owns one #1 dated 1960/62

The Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum owns two #1 dated 1965/66 and 1966.

The Metropolitan Museum of Arts owns 4 Kabuki pairs: three pairs of #1 (the first dated 1962, the second 1960/63 and the third ca. 1966) plus one # 4 dated ca. 1965

The Bata Shoe Museum owns one #4 dated ca. 1964.

FIDM (Fashion Institute Design Museum, Los Angeles) owns a pair of #4 dated ca.1964.

LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) owns a pair of #1 dated 1964.

MAAS (Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Sidney (Ultimo) Australia) owns a pair of #4 dated ca. 1964

Both #1 and #4 can be easily found at your favourite online retailer for a price range between $2,000 and $ 5,000. Also online can be found a Kabuki platform which looks like a transition between #1 and #2, probably a prototype.



Beth Levine
A Kabuki prototype?
Source: ebay

1963 | THE GAUCHO HEEL BY BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

$
0
0
1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The Gaucho Heel
Source: The Tennessean Sun | September 15, 1963


Herbert Levine’s stunner: the new Gaucho Heel of hand-carved walnut! It rests beneath the arch, is balanced on a pedestal. Graceful middling height. Black or nutty putty calfskin, $34.

Detroit Free Press
June 30, 1963



1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine | The Gaucho Heel (Walnut wood)
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Slingback with Gaucho Heel
Source: The Akron Beacon Journal | September 1, 1963


And before “going solo” the Gaucho Heel - in a slightly modified version - was spotted in a sandal whose wooden sole was cut in one piece. It was also adapted for a clog. 


1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Wooden sole sandal with the Gaucho Heel
Source: Chicago Tribune | January 4, 1963

1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Wooden sole sandal with the Gaucho Heel
Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art



BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X

HEELSTORY
HEEL HISTORY IN PICTURES



SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT

The Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum owns one Gaucho Heel (Pictured above, second from top) dated 1961/1963.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art owns both the sandal and the clog: the former dated ca. 1972, the latter 1964.

The Bata Museum owns a zebra striped clog, like the one pictured here below, dated 1967.



1963 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Clogs with the Gaucho Heel
Source: Harper’s Bazaar | April 1963

1967 | THE PAPER SHOE | KATHRYN STOLL PAIGE FOR HERBERT LEVINE

$
0
0
THE PAPER TWIST SHOE:

This new at-home fantasy is done in a huge palette of bright coloured, double-faced laminated paper strips twisted into exquisite swirls and multicolour bands which fled above the light composition soles. The Levine light touch creates a new whimsy in at-home fashions.

The Catholic Courier Journal
July 28, 1967 (1)


1967 | The Paper Shoes
Kathryn Still Paige for Herbert Levine
Source: Chicago Tribune | October 8, 1967

Year and magazine unknown | It’s Paper Jewelry by Kathryn Stoll Paige

It's instant... it's easy... it's paper jewelry. 
And it's yours for the making. Glazed gift-wraps in flash-bright colors, plus rubber cement, are the low-cost basic. Add double-face cellophane tape for sticking power, and you're all set for your paperwork. Designer Kathryn Stoll came up with these crisp twists. She likes her party curls (left) the most because they're both flattering and fun (and hit-of-the-party insurance as well). 
Year and magazine unknown

NY designer Kathryn Stoll was so well connected that she managed to convince Harper’s Bazaar’s then editor Gloria Moncur to propose the Levines her ideas; these days? try to find something more about her.

Her paper jewelry contains already both materials and color palette later seen in the paper shoes. Most probably, the article was published before July 1967, otherwise the paper shoes would have been mentioned.


1967 | The Paper Shoes | Herbert Levine | Designed by Kathryn Stoll Paige
ABOVE: from the collection of Dutch’s DL&SM (dated 1966)
BELOW: from the MET collection (dated ca. 1968)

1967 | The Paper Shoes | Herbert Levine | Designed by Kathryn Stoll Paige
Source: DL&SM



BETH & HERBERT LEVINE


(1)
The text from the newspaper match exactly the Herbert Levine press release written by Eleanor Lambert: cross check note 26 on “Beth Levine Shoes” book for further proof.



1967 | The Paper Shoes
Kathryn Still Paige for Herbert Levine
Source: Your Name Here


1969 | WALK ON THE WILD SIDE WITH HERBERT LEVINE

$
0
0
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE WITH HERBERT LEVINE 
Exotic jaguar spots are stenciled on tawny hair-calfskin for this magnificent stacked-heel pump. A catty and very fashionable way to wild-up basic blacks and untamed colors. $ 65,00.
Herbert Levine advertisement
The Philadelphia Inquirer | September 28, 1969

Three years before Lou Reed’s “Walk On The Wild Side”, Beth and Herbert Levine unleashed a line with edgy jaguar spots also available in brown or grey calf. Their use of animal prints dates back to 1962 with a well known leopard ankle boots followed a year later by zebra printed fur boots.



1969 | Walk On The Wild Side With Herbert Levine
Source: The Philadelphia Inquirer | September 28, 1969

1969 | Herbert Levine
Jaguar hair-calfskin pump
Source: eBay


HERBERT LEVINE HAS A WILD IDEA !
He’s going soft and spotty with the jungle look in dyed hair calf. And little way-out in his Herbert Levine style. The shoes 60,00. Bag to match, 40,00. Shoes also available in black or antique gold calf, 46,00. 
Herbert Levine advertisement
Hartford Courant | November 9, 1969


1969 | Herbert Levine Has A Wild Idea
Source: Hartford Courant | November 9, 1969

1969 | Herbert Levine
Hair-calfskin pump with gold-colored buckle
Source: eBay

1969 | Herbert Levine
Source: The Los Angeles Times | September 26, 1969


BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

FOOTNOTE
Both pumps can be found on eBay at very steep prices: $ 750,00 for the one on top; $ 1,200 for the buckled pump. The latter (without the buckle) is part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection (dated 1968).


1969 | Herbert Levine
Jaguar hair-calfskin pump

1974 | THE MODELS 'INVITATION'&'STRIKE UP THE BAND' | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

$
0
0
Romantic elegance with just that extra special touch! The crystal-clear vinyl gives a bared look and feel; when it’s midnight, you’ll still be Cinderella in her finery. 

Herbert Levine advertisement 
Source: The Akron Beacon Journal | September 26, 1974


1974 | The model “Invitation” | Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: The Akron Beacon Journal | September 26, 1974

1974 | The model “ Invitation” | Beth & Herbert Levine



Herbert Levine’s Sling Scheme for Spring 

Herbert Levine plots his Spring Strategy with a delightful sling of multi-color leather strips on clear vinyl or white leather strips on clear vinyl. Each set on a mid heel. 

Herbert Levine advertisement
Source: Abilene Reporter News | February 21, 1974



1974 | The model “Strike Up The Band” | Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: Abilene Reporter News | February 21, 1974

1974 | The model “Strike Up The Band” | Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum (Dated 1974)

On top:
The model Strike Up The Band with platform sole | Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: The Amarillo Globe Times | January 21, 1974



BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X



SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT
The Metropolitan Museum of Art owns both “Isolation” and “Strike Up The Band”: the former dated 1975, the latter 1972

Even the Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum owns both models: the "Isolation" - as manufactured by Beth Bootery - (1973/74) and  “Strike Up The Band” dated 1974.


1974 | The model “Strike Up The Band” | Beth & Herbert Levine

1974 | The model “ Invitation” | Beth's Bootery
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum (Dated 1974)

{ [ U P D A T E S ] }

1934 | ANDRE PERUGIA | WIRE METAL HEELS FEATURED ON NEW SHOES BY ARTIST

$
0
0
André Perugia, The Artist. That is. And the photograph here below is from 1934, but published only two years later by Minneapolis’ Star Tribune. The wrong date clashed with our previous researches until “The Lively Morgue”, the now dormant New York Times photoblog, came along.


1936 | André Perugia (Actually 1934)
Wire, Metal Heels
Source: Star Tribune (Minneapolis) | April 5, 1936


MAKING THE WORLD FOOT-CONSCIOUS

Any little negligences and slides from grace are registered in our feet, according to M. André Perugia of Paris. M. Perugia is shown above with three types of shoes, evening Oxford with aeroplane heel, mule with organ pipe heel, and sandal with machine age heel of metal balls.

Star Tribune (Minneapolis) | April 5, 1936



1934 | André Perugia | detail
Footwear Of The Future


The actual press photo is dated March 20, 1934 and the Star Tribune caption is only the last part of the original text witch reads like this:


FOOTWEAR OF THE FUTURE.

6-NY-1439 - NEW YORK CITY - Footwear of the future from the Padova Art exhibit at the Ferargil Galleries, with M. André Perugia, the Paris designer in whose honour the exhibition has been arranged. Photo shows Perugia with three girls wearing the latest in shoes. Left to right - evening Oxford with aeroplane wire heel; mule with organ pipe heel, and sandal with machine age heel of metal balls.

(Times World Wide Photos)



1934 | André Perugia
Footwear Of The Future


Additional researches made the following text available:

The show will be something like this: nearby a crayon sketch of a barefoot Hindu dancer will be Perugia’s red suede sandal which has steel wire heels. The heels are made of three wire strands, strong enough he says to support a lady weighting a ton.

Near a charcoal drawing of a ballet dancer, poised on her toes will be a green slipper leaving the toes bare with straps coming between them.

Alongside a painting of a titan-haired nude, which is named “The Grey Squirrel” will be a little brocade shoe, its heel made of metal balls.

Perugia is calm about the sudden rise in shoes’ art status. American women neglect their feet, he said, when the foot is the first thing men see.

“From the foot” he said, “you can tell a woman’s culture and breeding. Her face may be changed by cosmetics, but her foot is inevitable.”

M. Plummer
Rochester New York Times Union | March 28, 1934


Apparently, only the metal balls heel survived; not the original prototype, but a later design made for Eartha Kitt sixteen (16) years later. The New York Sun described the shoes as “beyond belief”. Indeed.


ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

HEELSTORY
HEEL HISTORY IN PICTURES



New York | Ferargil Galleries storefront


1933 - 2018 | PHILIP ROTH | IN MEMORIAM

$
0
0
Brooks Brothers | Monk Strap


“His shoes were beside the bed, cordovans with the strap that pulls across the instep, Brooks Brothers shoes of the kind I’d been wearing since I’d first admired them on the feet of a dapperly Princetonian Shakespeare professor at Bucknell. I bent to pick up Pipik’s shoes and saw that, along the back lateral curve, the heels were sharply worn away exactly as were the heels of the pair I had on. I looked at mine, at his, and then opened and shut the door so quickly that all I caught sight of as I hurled his cordovans into the corridor was the part in his hair”

Philip Roth
Operation Shylock (Simon & Schuster, 1993)



Philip Roth
Portnoy's Complaint


FERRINA BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | PART 1

$
0
0
1953 | Ferrina by Salvatore Ferragamo 
The Gloved Arch
Source : The Observer | April 26, 1953


CORSET-LIKE 
I met Salvatore Ferragamo during the week and heard from him that Mr. Bernard Oswell, one of the most knowledgeable men in the English shoe world, has taken charge of what will here be called “FERRINA” shoes and which are now being made in Norwich, Northampton and London, the three English centres of shoemaking. Since February the men have been getting into the technique of combining the delicate designs with great wearing strength. “We have learnt to draw the leather over the last until you might say that it corsets it,” as one worker said. 
The Observer
London | October 7, 1951

The FERRINA brand was patented by Salvatore Ferragamo in Italy July 14, 1949 (granted March 27, 1950) to manufacture general women’s and kid’s shoes.



FERRINA by Salvatore Ferragamo
Source: Archivio Di Stato


MACHINE-MADE SHOES ON ITALIAN MODEL
Half Price Of Originals 
The inventor of the wedge heel for women’s shoes, Signor Salvatore Ferragamo of Florence, gave a demonstration yesterday in Manchester of the machine-made shoes being made in Britain now to the exact design of the hand-made shoes he produces in Florence. 
The Guardian
London | May 13, 1952

The dream of the industrialised hand-made footwear theorised at the end of the Twenties was gone forever and Ferragamo went for a strict quality controlled machine-made production. The “exact design” was really that, as the ad above can prove: the well known patented model “Gloved Arch” (upcoming) shown as part of the Ferrina line.

Nonetheless, three months later, while on a promotional tour in Australia, Ferragamo never mentioned the new Ferrina brand and said:

“People ask me why I don’t use at least some machines in making my shoes,” he says: “but I say, the personality of my shoes would never be the same.” (The Sunday Herald | Sidney - August 3, 1952)

Which means the Ferrina weren’t really HIS shoes but apparently deemed good enough to fulfil the requests coming from both European and American markets.



1952 | Ferrina by Ferragamo


The British machine-made shoes will mostly sell at £ 6, which is about half the price of the Italian hand-made originals, and it is intended to export them to America as well from the factories in Norwich (the largest), London, and Northampton, which are making them. They are being made from British materials - leather from Bolton for instance - which Signor Ferragamo imports to Florence for his hand-made designs.

The shoes are made on special machines, as they belong to that minority of shoes which, for instance, have left and right heels differently shaped, and also to accord with Signor Ferragamo’s principle that the weight of the body should fall vertically on the arch of the foot. The arch joint, he says, never exceeds 1 1/2 inch in even the largest feet, and if this is not well fitted to the arch of the shoe even shoes made to measure will not fit entirely well.

One demonstration of this principle could yesterday be seen in light sandals with a “sculptured wedge” heel cut completely away beneath the heel itself and depending on a small moulded wedge projecting backwards below the arch of the foot. This display, held at Messrs Kendal Milne And Co., also included, apart from many classic designs, coloured summer shoes in Manila hemp, and “gondola” sandals in a lower price range, with sling back, wedge heel, and turned up toes.

The Guardian
London | May 13, 1952



FERRINA
BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | PART 2



Ferrina by Ferragamo at Kendals | Manchester
Source: The Guardian | May 12, 1952

FERRINA BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | PART 2

$
0
0
Ferrina by Salvatore Ferragamo
At Kendals | Manchester

“FERRINA” SHOES 
We invite you to inspect our beautiful range of “Ferrina” shoes made in England by British craftsmen under the supervision of Signor Salvatore Ferragamo, of Florence. Superlative in stylings, workmanship, and materials, these shoes priced £5.19.6 are exclusive to Kendals in Manchester. 
Kendal Milne & Co. advertisement
The Guardian | May 14, 1952


Ferrina by Salvatore Ferragamo | At Kendals | Manchester
Source: The Guardian | May 14, 1952


The ad above is deceptive: the Ferrinas weren’t shown although Ferragamo also produced children’s footwear under the new moniker. No stone left unturned.

By July 1952 the Ferrina brand reached the American market and warmly welcomed :


HAND MADE SHOES BECOME AVAILABLE TO AVERAGE PEOPLE.
SOON TO BE HERE 
In New York I visited the showroom where samples of the Ferragamo shoe fashions, soon to be available at Joseph Horne’s, were shown to me. In sizes 4 1/2 to 10, AAAA to C widths, there were so-called standard shoes, delicate looking, sturdily made, beautifully turned and stitched. With moderately high but extremely graceful heels that look higher, two closed-toe, closed-heel shoes had a single eyelet tie, or were made in a décolleté pump style with slightly rounded toe. 
A black suede pump had a gold underlay. This was in the specially styled group, which also included shoes in four or five shades of leather given an iridescent quality through some secret gold wash process. 
Frances Walker
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette | July 2, 1952



1955 | Ferrina By Salvatore Ferragamo
At Kendals | Manchester
Source: The Guardian | February 2, 1955


Salvatore Ferragamo kept producing hand-made shoes until his death (1960); probably the hand-made production survived his creator for a few years. All the same, while it is unclear when the Ferrina brand ended its course, the established M.O. remained in place. The market demanded it and there was no looking back.


FERRINA
BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | PART 1

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
I N D E X



Ferrina by Salvatore Ferragamo


1940 - 1950 | COOL COOL RAFFIA | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

$
0
0
Nice little feet
1940 | Salvatore Ferragamo models made with raffia
Source: Grazia magazine July 4, 1940/Sistema Archivistico Nazionale


Successful Ferragamo models used to be kept in production for years, sometime for a decade, with subtle differences if not untouched (still is). The model above on the right is one of them. The photograph is from 1940 and the accompanied article doesn’t explain much in terms of materials: it just goes on and on about how good the non-leather products are and how nice they look. The scarcity of leather described as a virtue rather than a weakness. That’s the autarchic era: genuine “made in Italy”.

The same model reappeared two years later featured on the precious “Documento - Moda” of the Summer 1942: this time even the wedge is covered with the the synthetic straw hand-woven by Fede Chieti’s artisans. An actual model is kept at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (dated 1938-40) and another at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.



1942 | Salvatore Ferragamo
Hand woven synthetic fabric (Lin-Lan) designed by Fede Cheti
Source: Documento - Moda

1942 | Salvatore Ferragamo
Hand woven synthetic fabric (Lin-Lan) designed by Fede Cheti
Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art (dated 1938/40)

1942 | Salvatore Ferragamo
Hand woven synthetic fabric (Lin-Lan) designed by Fede Cheti

Source: Sistema Archivistico Nazionale


Fast-forward ten years and the raffia - no more synthetic - is back in fashion competing against fine leathers and exquisite textiles. Ferragamo is at the forefront once again; after all, he was a master of that material in the first place. Our model is back in action in its original form (no hand-woven raffia on the wedge and a slightly different pattern on the vamp).



1950 | Salvatore Ferragamo
Hand woven raffia
Source: The Courier Journal | April 11, 1950


Ours alone …Hand-made straw shoes
Our own imports from sunny Italy

Brilliant, new straw shoes, master-designed by Salvatore Ferragamo, the amazing shoe genius whose factory is a palace in Florence, whose workers are among the most skilled shoe craftsmen in the world. Fashioned of hand-woven raffia, and so deftly, so precise in their fit, so light on the foot …

The Courier Journal (Louisville, Kentucky)
April 11, 1950



1951 | Cool cool Raffia
Straw Ferragamo shoes at Baltimore's Hess
Source: The Baltimore Sun | May 13, 1951


And here it comes the straw sandal on top right from the ever-surprising collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (dated 1947-50), gift of the Italian Government to the Brooklyn Museum in 1954.



1951 | Salvatore Ferragamo
Hand woven raffia and crocheted insert
Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art (dated 1947/50)


FOOTWEAR & AUTARCHY
THE AUTARCHIC WAY OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
PART 1/3 | PART 2/3 | PART 3/3

MADE IN ITALY
BY LAW

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
I N D E X






1951 | THE MODEL POLIA BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

$
0
0
1951 | Salvatore Ferragamo at Fortnum & Mason | London
The models Polia (below) and “Oxhy”
Source: The Observer | London October 14, 1951

“POLIA”Black suede court shoe with point de Venice lace collar - for all formal occasions. 
Salvatore Ferragamo ad
Source: The Observer | London October 14, 1951

Not to underestimate the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, but it seems the only “Polia” in existence is coming from the Shoes Or No Shoes collection.


SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
I N D E X


1951 | Salvatore Ferragamo
The model Polia

1952 | Salvatore Ferragamo at Hess Brothers
The model Polia
Source: The Morning Call | March 23, 1952

DONALD E. WESTLAKE GUARANTEES: NOT FOR HUMAN FEET

$
0
0
Ebb Tide Bar And Grill
Amsterdam Avenue and 158th Street, N.E. corner


“When Andy Kelp walked into the OJ Bar & Grill on Amsterdam Avenue at six in the evening, the regulars were discussing the proposition that the new big buildings that had been stuck up over on Broadway, one block to the west, were actually spaceships designed and owned by aliens. “It’s for a zoo,” one regular was suggesting.”

“No no no,” a second regular said, “that isn’t what I meant.” So he was apparently the one who’d raised the suggestion in the first place. “What I meant is for the aliens to come here.”

A third regular frowned at that. “Aliens come here? When?”

“Now,” the second regular told him. “They’re here already.”



Once We Were Aliens
Aliens Entering Buildings for Examination | Postcard, 1925


“I don’t see no aliens,” he said.

“Yuppies,” the second regular told him. “Where’d you think they came from? Earth?”

“Yuppies?” The third regular was a massive frowner. “How do you figure that?”

“It’s the yuppies, all right. Here they are all of a sudden all over the place, every one of them the same. Can actual adult human beings live indefinitely on ice cream and cookies? No. And did you ever see what they drink?”

“And you notice their shoes?”

“All yuppies, male and female, they all wear those same weird shoes. You know why?”

“Fashion,” the third regular said.”

“Fashion?” echoed the second regular. “How can it be fashion to wear a suit and at the same time these big clunky weird canvas sneakers? How does it work out to be fashion for a woman to put on all kindsa makeup, and fix her hair, and put on a dress and earrings and stuff around her neck, and then put on those sneakers?”



Not canvas, but still
Balenciaga Triple S

They are among us
Aliens Next Gen


“So what’s your reading on this?” the third regular asked, as the first regular, zoo partisan, stepped slowly and purposefully off his stool and removed his coat.

“Their feet are different,” the second regular explained. “On accounta they’re aliens. Human feet won’t fit into those shoes.”

Donald E. Westlake
From: “Drowned Hopes - A Dortumunder Novel” (Mysterious Press, 1990)



MORE WEIRDNESS
ENNIO FLAIANO V/S ALIENS



Cobbler Stick To Your Last
Nova | Architect Zaha Hadid for United Nude

A Word Of Warning …

IN MEMORIAM | ANTHONY BOURDAIN (JUNE 25, 1956 - JUNE 8, 2018)

$
0
0
When referring to themselves collectively, my Mexican carnales like La Raza or La M (pronounced la emaayy), or La Mafia. Externs from culinary school, working for free as a 'learning experience' - which by itself translates to 'lots of work and no money' - are quickly tagged as FNG (Fucking New Guy), or Mel for mal carne (bad meat). Army, short for 'army cook', or the classic but elegant shoe, short for 'shoemaker', are the perennial insults for a lousy or 'slophouse' cook.

Anthony Bourdain
From: Kitchen Confidential (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2000)


Cro-Mags’ Harley Flanagan & Anthony Bourdain
Source: NewYorkNatives/YouTube (A Must-See video)


Understand this: I always hated those articles, like the ones in Vanity Fair, featuring the Lifestyles of the Rich and Despotic, where some chicken-brained Hilton kiddie, shrivelled Sukarno relative, or Scientologist movie star lets us into their swanky digs to show off their collection of expensive motorcars and Tiberius-inspired plumbing. I don't know why they really publish this stuff. 

Do the writers actually admire these no-accounts and wish us to emulate their wastrel behaviour if we can? Or are the writers, in fact, hard-core Maoist provocateurs, hoping secretly to rouse us ordinary schlubs to a murderous rage with these glimpses into the profligate spending of capitalist grotesques?

Anthony Bourdain
From: The Nasty Bits (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2005)



Iggy & Anthony
The Two Godafathers
Source: Night Flight

1952 | THE GLOVED ARCH BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO [AKA FERRAGAMO V/S LEVINE]

$
0
0

Look at the “gloved arch”. It’s a spool-heeled masterpiece that hugs the curve of the foot in suede, soles only where it touches the ground; it gloves everything but the short front sole in one unbroken sweep of texture and colour. Ferragamo’s newest device toward a more delicate shoe, toward a softer tread. 
Salvatore Ferragamo at Farmer’s advertisement
The Sunday Herald | March 29, 1953

1953 | Salvatore Ferragamo at Farmer’s 
The “Gloved Arch”
Source: The Sunday Herald | March 29, 1953



"The gloved arches give more support and the covered toes give more protection, yet, because of the lightweight leathers, these 'closed up' shoes are as easy on the foot as a sandal." 
Salvatore Ferragamo
Union-Sun & Journal | Lockport, NY January 21, 1957


HAS FERRAGAMO CREATED THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL SHOE?

No, we don’t think so, and it is debatable whether the "gloved arches give more support"or not; however it was a clever idea and never seen before. It was patented between April 3 and July 22, 1952 in Italy, France, U.K. and U.S.A.; the British were the last to grant the patent (October 26, 1955), followed by the French (March 16, 1954).

The magazine cover seen on the lower bottom of the Sunday Herald ad is Vogue UK and the full page shows the photograph here below. 



1952 | Salvatore Ferragamo | The “Gloved Arch”
Photograph: Herbert Matter
Source: Vogue UK - October 1952

1952 | Salvatore Ferragamo | The Gloved Arch 
U.S. Patent drawing | Filed July 22, 1952 | Granted July 14, 1953
Source: Google Patents


According to the invention a shoe is provided having a heel, an upper the side portions of which are extended in the form of flaps which meet underneath the shank of the shoe and an outer sole which terminates short of the heel, wherein the said flaps are extended rearwardly so as to cover the upper portion of the front of the heel.

From the U.K. patent specification
Filed May 20, 1952 | Granted October 26, 1955 



1952 | Salvatore Ferragamo
The Gloved Arch and its Italian patent


We may be wrong, but shoes with the Gloved Arch can't be found anywhere but the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.


SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
I N D E X



FOOTNOTE


1956 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model Under Construction
Source: “Beth Levine Shoes” (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2009)


(The model) Under Construction was revolutionary on that it has only a half-sole under the ball of the foot, and the underside of the arch is embellished leather so the shoe will “fit like a glove”.

From: “Beth Levine Shoes” (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2009)



1956 | Beth Levine
Patent paperwork filed April 10, 1956 | Granted January 1, 1957
Source: Google Patents



As much as we like Beth Levine, “Under Construction” wasn’t revolutionary - not even in the first place - smart, but not revolutionary. The book also says 1955 even though the American patent was filed April 10, 1956.

It’s only a guess, but we don’t think Beth Levine knew of the Ferragamo model, nor the “fit like a glove” coming from her, but still, the similarity is striking. Levine’s looks nicer though.


BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X



1956 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model "Under Construction"
Source: “The Seductive Shoe” by Jonathan Walford (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2007)

Viewing all 405 articles
Browse latest View live